Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[Famine]

Ok, I have ford k springs (1.5") with bmr lca with relocation brackets (top hole), bmr adjustable Panhard bar, koni yellow struts, bmr adjustable uca with bracket. I didn't see in the instructions on the uca which hole to try, so for some reason in my mind I figured the bottom hole would work best. After reading around, people recommend the top hole for lowered cars. Another thing to note is I couldn't get a -2,2 on the pinion angle settings, however with a -1,1 roundabout setting, the car feels fantastic. It really hooks. I did the uca after the other stuff had been done days prior. No nvh at all more than I already had stock. So should I even screw with it and move it to the hole closer to the body considering it feels good with no vibration and it being a bitch to take it all back out? Suggestions?

 

[Famine]

Also what was the exact size of the wrenches for the lock bolts and adjustment rod? I used crescent wrench (pita). I want to get the right sizes and cut them down to fit.

Last thing, I forgot the loctite on the lock bolts as well. I'm wondering how well they will hold without it....

 

[RiskyRick]

I understand bias plys get along with a little wheel speed whereas a radial needs to dead hook to work. I know the answer is no before I even ask, but in a scenario where a person wants to make a stick car work with a radial tire, would it be advantageous for a person allow a little bit of axle windup to absorb some of the shock?- i.e. LCA's with rod ends but a Roush upper

I would still like to hear some thoughts on this. At least an explanation of why if it's a bad idea?

 

[Scott8583]

Kelly that was a great answer to walt6076's question!

I've been searching for an answer similar to his question. Actually a 2 part question. I've been running stock suspension and I would rather not lower my car. I recently tried a stiffer rear spring (D55) to counter act the squat on my car. I have an 80lb intercooler tank & battery in the trunk, so I was curious if the soft stock spring was hurting things. I also noticed my passenger shock was leaking oil. Grabbed a set of Strange dbl adj rear shocks in a pinch...

My question is... On a stock ride hieght auto car, what effect does a stiffer spring have on hitting the tires compared to stiffer shock settings? Made 2 passes today and the violent launch was gone, it just took off (but my 60' slowed)

Question 2 what shock settings would you recomend for the Strange dbl adj.
I started with 4c 6r on left & 5c 6r on the right = 1.48 60'
Then I tried 3c 6r on left & 4c 6r on right = 1.52 60'
I've been 1.45 100% stock

Also do you recomend a beefier rear swabar or the anti roll bar for street cars without front sway bars?
Thanks

 

[BMR Tech]

Now we're getting into some good stuff.

I've got a little too much Captain in me right now to really go into depth here for a few of you guys, but I will definitely jump on this tomorrow when at the office.

BTW, a 5:1 mix of Sierra Mist and Captain Morgan Private Stock is just amazing.

 

[BMR Tech]

Oh no! What have I done? I am sure this will just make my limited amount of time, as is, more limited....but that's fine. I know my wife is going to "hate" this - but the customers will enjoy having it around.

7-Days a week....nights and weekends, support from yours truly on FB!

www.facebook.com/BMRMustangSupport

 

[walt6076]

Setup 2008 GT500 500RWP
- BMR drag race springs
- Front struts single adjustable Strange
- Rear LCA BMR relocation brackets, Rear tubular LCA
- Rear UCA bracket Eibach Pro with UCA connected at bracket’s front hole
- Rear shocks double adjustable Vikings
- Rear tires QUICK TIME PRO 28x11.50-15LT

I’ve been adjusting the suspension for more aggressive hook: moved the LCA to the lowest hole in the LCA relocation bracket. I’ve adjusted the front in increments from 5 down to 2. I’ve adjusted the rear in increments from 3C/3R to 2C/8R.

Burnouts in 2-nd gear for 4-5 seconds.

Launches at 2,000 RPM hook with a 1.75 60’ time. Anything more than 2,000 RPM spins: 3,000 RPM = 1.85 60’, 4,000 RPM = 1.95 60’.

I’d really like to be able to launch with more power at a higher RPM if I can get better hook.

First question, is the front hole on the Eibach Pro UCA mount the correct one to be using?

Second question, is there anything likely to be gained going from 2 to 0 on the front strut setting? Is there anything likely to be gained with compression softer than 2 and/or rebound firmer than 8?

Thanks for the help.

 

[BMR Tech]

Setup 2008 GT500 500RWP
- BMR drag race springs
- Front struts single adjustable Strange
- Rear LCA BMR relocation brackets, Rear tubular LCA
- Rear UCA bracket Eibach Pro with UCA connected at bracket’s front hole
- Rear shocks double adjustable Vikings
- Rear tires QUICK TIME PRO 28x11.50-15LT

I’ve been adjusting the suspension for more aggressive hook: moved the LCA to the lowest hole in the LCA relocation bracket. I’ve adjusted the front in increments from 5 down to 2. I’ve adjusted the rear in increments from 3C/3R to 2C/8R.

Burnouts in 2-nd gear for 4-5 seconds.

Launches at 2,000 RPM hook with a 1.75 60’ time. Anything more than 2,000 RPM spins: 3,000 RPM = 1.85 60’, 4,000 RPM = 1.95 60’.

I’d really like to be able to launch with more power at a higher RPM if I can get better hook.

First question, is the front hole on the Eibach Pro UCA mount the correct one to be using?

Second question, is there anything likely to be gained going from 2 to 0 on the front strut setting? Is there anything likely to be gained with compression softer than 2 and/or rebound firmer than 8?

Thanks for the help.

I like combos like yours to launch in the 4500RPM range, with just a little bit of wheel speed.

My suggestion for you is to

-Strange Struts in the 2-3 click range clockwise, from full soft.
-Viking Shocks in the 5C / 9R range.
-Tires at 13.5 - 14 PSI cold, pre-burnout

There is not a magical setting. I only provide base settings from my experiences with many combinations (I have direct personal experience with your combo) - BUT the most important thing is take notes on every pass, and find a pattern. This is one reason I like a 2-step, to help with finding that pattern. Too often, people just give up on experimenting and launch at say, 2K rpm. The proper way to do it is to push the limits, and make the car work above and beyond what your settling for. So for example in your case, if the car "works" at 2K rpm, but does not perform to your liking....you need to be making passes at higher RPM and finding what will improve your times in those scenarios. This, again, is why I like the 2-steps. Set it at 3500 and make your adjustments until you get it to work. Then 4K...repeat....etc etc.

In your case, the settings you have provided are too low. Honestly, anything under 6 or so on C/R basically removes the benefit of having such a good rear shock - a $90 Strange Shock would work just as well.

Stick shift cars hit the tires harder, so naturally, you will run stiffer settings to help control the "hit" to the tires.

Now back to your car. If this new setting I told you works initially, then unloads.....repeat the run and add a click to the front struts (you DO NOT want the front to come up "too" quickly, because it disrupts the rear)

If the car blows the tires off initially....immediately on the hit, raise the Rebound up a little on the rear shocks. You are using the lowest position on the RLCA Brackets, so there is two ways to approach it. First, you can go LOW on the Rebound to let the suspension hit the tires hard (usually better for Autos) or you can go HIGH on the Rebound, to apply a hard but steadier, more controlled hit to the tires (usually better for stick cars....or high RPM Trans Brakes)

Hope this helps!

 

[phfelts]

Kelly,

I spoke to you a while back about switching to BMR springs from my sportlines, but I do have one question that I'm not sure you can answer. Would the watts link setup you're working on for these cars still work if I were to install an Air Lift suspension on my car? I know I could save a lot of money and just switch out springs for an improved ride quality, but there are still plenty of locations in Hawaii where it would be nice if I could raise the car up a little anytime I wanted.

I wasn't sure if you've had much experience with those kits on customer cars perhaps, but I was just curious on your thoughts. Thanks in advance!

 

[BMR Tech]

I am not sure to be honest.

If you want to use our Watts....when the time comes after they are readily available on the shelf, I could provide you with a discount to give me some feedback.

 

[phfelts]

That sounds awesome, any new updates on the watts link?

 

[barnspace007]

I am stock ride height, making 600 hp with a tvs supercharger. I using a 275 65 15 mt pro tire. I am going to install your adjustable uca arm, non adjustable lac arms and strange struts and Viking double adjustable rear shocks. What hole do I need to use for the upper control arm and what is the length of the stock uca. The bmr upper needs to be the same length as the stock piece? On shocks and struts what would be some good starting points for the dragstrip for a good 60 foot time. this is a auto transmission car. Thank for all you do.....

 

[barnspace007]

Ttt

 

[BMR Tech]

On vacation until Tuesday of next week, I will jump in here when I get back

 

[cyazo6]

Kelly, I have a 2010 GT500 680rwhp 620ftlbs
BMR drag springs, Strange adjustable front struts, Viking double adjustable rear shocks, BMR radiator support with no front sway bar, BMR adjustable upper/lower control arms and pan hard bar. Mickey Thompson ET STREET Pro tires. How do you recommend setting the car up to 60ft?

I do not currently have the BMR upper control arm mount. Do you think it would help my car/set up 60ft at all?

 

[IamRacerX]

Kelly,
First let me say thanks for your help in the past. We all appreciate you taking the time to help answer our questions!

I am running BMR adjustable LCA, relo brackets, and adj PHB. i am running Eibach Sportlines springs. The car drives perfect and has aligned out perfect too. My question is this...
When I take sharp turns either while backing or forward into a parking space, the car seems to lean in the rear toward the passengers side. It stays that way until I drive it, then it evens back out. It's about 1/2-3/4 up on the drivers side and the same amount down on the passenger side. Anything pop in your head to check? Last oil change everything was checkout and was tight and in place? It's been a little baffling!

 

[D98GT]

This thread alone has resulted in me changing up a few things.
I purchased some Vikings due to all of the great things I hear about them and there has to be a reason that all of the shops recommend them. I'll also be installing my BMR arb at the same time.

Now I just have to find the killer deal on front struts to complete my package as its the only stock part left. 1.3x 60s will be mine!

 

[BMR Tech]

Kelly, I have a 2010 GT500 680rwhp 620ftlbs
BMR drag springs, Strange adjustable front struts, Viking double adjustable rear shocks, BMR radiator support with no front sway bar, BMR adjustable upper/lower control arms and pan hard bar. Mickey Thompson ET STREET Pro tires. How do you recommend setting the car up to 60ft?

I do not currently have the BMR upper control arm mount. Do you think it would help my car/set up 60ft at all?

Set the front struts at 2 clicks.

LCA in the middle position on the relos.

Start with the Vikings at 7C/11R.....and work the "R" down until it works for you.

As for the UCA Mount, it should help a little, but I cannot promise you will get substantial gains from it. If you were to need the lower position on the UCA Mount, which you shouldn't - then it would be very good gains.

Let us know who it works!

Kelly,
First let me say thanks for your help in the past. We all appreciate you taking the time to help answer our questions!

I am running BMR adjustable LCA, relo brackets, and adj PHB. i am running Eibach Sportlines springs. The car drives perfect and has aligned out perfect too. My question is this...
When I take sharp turns either while backing or forward into a parking space, the car seems to lean in the rear toward the passengers side. It stays that way until I drive it, then it evens back out. It's about 1/2-3/4 up on the drivers side and the same amount down on the passenger side. Anything pop in your head to check? Last oil change everything was checkout and was tight and in place? It's been a little baffling!

You are quite welcome! I enjoy it.

What you are experiencing is a panhard bar suspension. That is how they work, and the effects are amplified by the RLCA Brackets. (steeper the angle, the more pronounced it will be, due to the increased leverage/arc)

I wouldn't worry about it. ;-)

This thread alone has resulted in me changing up a few things.
I purchased some Vikings due to all of the great things I hear about them and there has to be a reason that all of the shops recommend them. I'll also be installing my BMR arb at the same time.

Now I just have to find the killer deal on front struts to complete my package as its the only stock part left. 1.3x 60s will be mine!

Woohoo!

When the time comes for dialing it in, just revisit this thread and I will be happy to assist!

 

[barnspace007]

Kelly, I have been waiting since July 8 for a response...

 

[BMR Tech]

I am stock ride height, making 600 hp with a tvs supercharger. I using a 275 65 15 mt pro tire. I am going to install your adjustable uca arm, non adjustable lac arms and strange struts and Viking double adjustable rear shocks. What hole do I need to use for the upper control arm and what is the length of the stock uca. The bmr upper needs to be the same length as the stock piece? On shocks and struts what would be some good starting points for the dragstrip for a good 60 foot time. this is a auto transmission car. Thank for all you do.....

Lower hole on UCA Mount

Stock Arm is 9.5" center to center. Yes, same as stock.

For you car, I suggest starting at 3 clicks on the Strange Struts, and 10C/4R on the rear shocks.

Good luck!