Suspension Tech: Bring It!

Stevem17500

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Bmr tech....Kelley please help

I have a ysi car wit same setup as sheldon....
Mt pros from 15psi to 18psi
lca bmr
relocation brackets bmr
p springs and
viking shocks
tried running setting 4/8. And 2/8 even 5/14 on vikings best 60ft was a 1.56.....my lca is on the top whole of the relocation brackets....need help....Iv been 1.40 on stock springs
 
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SHUFFLE STEER

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Any opinions on these front control arms by Kenny Brown. Weight is listed at 20 lbs. per pair.
http://stang-aholics.com/ShowItem/111700 10-14 Mustang Kenny Brown Front Lower Control Arms.aspx

I am considering Kenny Brown & BMR....or any other recommendations? BMR TECH & TJ@STEEDA, please, I'd value your input.

I REALLY would encourage companies making suspension, frame, & lightweight body components to list their product weights as well as weight savings over stock components. I am trying to get optimum weight reduction with optimum weight distribution. Getting the specs. to do it is virtually impossible and frustrating when trying to decide where to lose weight so I can add it in another part.
 

four28

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I'm looking at adding some suspension, here is the list tell me if I'm missing something:

SP068
PHR006
CAB005
TCA021 or TCA022 (don't know if I should get the adjustable ones)
UCM002
UTCA030 or UTCA032(again unsure about the adjustable)

Car is a '11 M6 with v3. All suspension is stock and I'm wanting to make it hook up now. I'm also unsure of the purpose or need for the adjustable control arms. Thanks.
 

BMR Tech

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Did I help you guys out with these questions already? Sorry for the delay, busy season is hectic!

LMK if I still need to answer these questions.
 

derricksmustang

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BMRTech?? ive got a 20111 gt basic hp bolt ons should be close to 400 hp,
suspension:
BMR SP009 springs
BMR LCA and relocation brackets in middle hole
BMR UCA non adjustable with BMR mount top hole
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
M/T street comp 305/35/20 non drag radials

should I be waiting for warmer weather or is my set up missing something. with all of the above I was hoping to hook better I should say I was expecting to hook Good. What PSI should I be running in these tires. Thanks
 
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walt6076

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GT500 hooks hard for about 20’ and then unloads and spins.

Hey BMR Tech can you suggest a course of action? My GT500 hooks hard for about 20’ and then unloads and spins.

Here’s the car info: 2008 GT500 with 500 RWHP. Eibach pro kit lower springs and dampers. Steeda tubular rear lower control arms, Steeda adjustable rear upper control arm (not sure which one) set to -1.5 degree driveshaft angle. Aluminum one piece driveshaft. Steeda front and rear sway bars. BMR Suspension lower control arm relocation brackets with LCAs currently using the middle hole. BMR Suspension rear sway bar relocation brackets.
(The Steeda sway bar and BMR parts didn’t exactly play well together and some grinding on the LCA relo brackets for clearance was required.)

15x10 wheels with 28x11.5-15 Hoosier QTP.

I can launch as hard as 5000 RPM (or as easy as 3000 RPM) and the car hooks hard but after a few feet, maybe 20', the rear unloads and tires spin. Subjectively it feels like the rear actually bounces up, but that is hard to verify for sure. For sure it does hook and not spin immediately off the line, and then well before my nose reaches the tree I am spinning.

I’m open to anything to get the car to hook because I do plan on adding another 150HP once the traction issues are sorted out. The car does see street duty so I don’t want to ruin its road manners but obviously I’m OK with a harsh ride because it is stiff as can be now. And the car never sees really hard cornering because there are no opportunities for that here. LOL.

I’m wondering if a different LCA relocation adjustment up or down might help. Or maybe I need different shocks to help keep the rear from bouncing up after launch? Or maybe I need a different upper control arm?
 

BMR Tech

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BMRTech?? ive got a 20111 gt basic hp bolt ons should be close to 400 hp,
suspension:
BMR SP009 springs
BMR LCA and relocation brackets in middle hole
BMR UCA non adjustable with BMR mount top hole
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
M/T street comp 305/35/20 non drag radials

should I be waiting for warmer weather or is my set up missing something. with all of the above I was hoping to hook better I should say I was expecting to hook Good. What PSI should I be running in these tires. Thanks

It is difficult to get a car with 400+HP to hook "good" on regular street radial tires. Especially from low speeds.

In your current situation, it may take clean roads....and warm temps, with warm tires, and good driving to make the car hook good.

My recommendation is to get a softer compound rear tire on the car, so you can take full advantage of the suspension components you are using.

Hey BMR Tech can you suggest a course of action? My GT500 hooks hard for about 20’ and then unloads and spins.

Here’s the car info: 2008 GT500 with 500 RWHP. Eibach pro kit lower springs and dampers. Steeda tubular rear lower control arms, Steeda adjustable rear upper control arm (not sure which one) set to -1.5 degree driveshaft angle. Aluminum one piece driveshaft. Steeda front and rear sway bars. BMR Suspension lower control arm relocation brackets with LCAs currently using the middle hole. BMR Suspension rear sway bar relocation brackets.
(The Steeda sway bar and BMR parts didn’t exactly play well together and some grinding on the LCA relo brackets for clearance was required.)

15x10 wheels with 28x11.5-15 Hoosier QTP.

I can launch as hard as 5000 RPM (or as easy as 3000 RPM) and the car hooks hard but after a few feet, maybe 20', the rear unloads and tires spin. Subjectively it feels like the rear actually bounces up, but that is hard to verify for sure. For sure it does hook and not spin immediately off the line, and then well before my nose reaches the tree I am spinning.

I’m open to anything to get the car to hook because I do plan on adding another 150HP once the traction issues are sorted out. The car does see street duty so I don’t want to ruin its road manners but obviously I’m OK with a harsh ride because it is stiff as can be now. And the car never sees really hard cornering because there are no opportunities for that here. LOL.

I’m wondering if a different LCA relocation adjustment up or down might help. Or maybe I need different shocks to help keep the rear from bouncing up after launch? Or maybe I need a different upper control arm?

BMR-SP075 (GT500 Drag Springs)
STR-S6009LM (Strange Struts)
VIK-B226 (Viking Shocks)

I would like to see the UCA and Mount you have, so I can determine what position to use for the mounting point.

Then, I will be able to recommend everything to you - like, tire PSI, UCA/LCA positions, and shocks/strut settings.

The most important thing you can do right now is to swap dampers....but I highly recommend BMRifying the components above, so we can get the car working.
 

walt6076

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RE GT500 that hooks and then spins: My current UCA doesn't seem to have different mounting points. (1) Can you recommend the correct BMR UCA parts and I will just replace them while I changing everything else? (2) with the Strange Struts and Viking Shocks will street manners still be OK? (3) I don't mind spending the money for new springs, but can you tell me what differences to expect between your drag springs and my Eibach pro springs? Thanks for helping me sort this out!
 

BMR Tech

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RE GT500 that hooks and then spins: My current UCA doesn't seem to have different mounting points. (1) Can you recommend the correct BMR UCA parts and I will just replace them while I changing everything else? (2) with the Strange Struts and Viking Shocks will street manners still be OK? (3) I don't mind spending the money for new springs, but can you tell me what differences to expect between your drag springs and my Eibach pro springs? Thanks for helping me sort this out!

Well, I don't like for people to waste money - so I would like to see what you have, so I can assist further. As much as I want #WorldDomination I don't think throwing your current UCA system out in favor of ours, is going to "pay off".

As for the difference in the springs, our geometry with our springs is right where we want it, to work with our support modifications such as our UCA and LCA mounts. I am better able to help people get their cars working with a spring that I design, than others. As for the rates, our GT500 rates are 165F/160R compared to the other springs out there going over 200lbs in. in the front, and 180+ out back. I have come up with the rates of our springs, after years and years of testing. The other good thing is, the ride of our springs is phenomenal.

The Strange/Viking combo is very street friendly. If you go the BMR Spring route, then you will have great ride quality with (5) up front on the Stranges, and 3C/3R out back on the Vikings.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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Great info as always, Kelly.

Have you heard any feedback on the road harshness of your SP065 handling springs yet?

The rates don't scare me as they don't seem that high for my HPDE use, but it is 90% daily driven so it's worth hearing about.

Thanks
 

BMR Tech

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Great info as always, Kelly.

Have you heard any feedback on the road harshness of your SP065 handling springs yet?

The rates don't scare me as they don't seem that high for my HPDE use, but it is 90% daily driven so it's worth hearing about.

Thanks

I have had about 15 people give me feedback with our SP065 Handling Springs.

Just about every single person stated "The ride is definitely firm, but not harsh at all and is surprisingly smooth"

I put A LOT of time into those springs. More than the others. I went as high as possible with F/R rates, until I started finding too much jounciness due to dampers not being able to keep up. I found that going over 260F and 220R....really started making the ride uncomfortable, with OEM, Strange, Koni STR/Yellows, Bilsteins (Monos and the 13-14 GT500versions) and Tokicos (the DSP12's I used were old...but still good)

I don't really recommend the SP065 with an OEM damper, but they work extremely well with any aftermarket dampers.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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I have had about 15 people give me feedback with our SP065 Handling Springs.

Just about every single person stated "The ride is definitely firm, but not harsh at all and is surprisingly smooth"

I put A LOT of time into those springs. More than the others. I went as high as possible with F/R rates, until I started finding too much jounciness due to dampers not being able to keep up. I found that going over 260F and 220R....really started making the ride uncomfortable, with OEM, Strange, Koni STR/Yellows, Bilsteins (Monos and the 13-14 GT500versions) and Tokicos (the DSP12's I used were old...but still good)

I don't really recommend the SP065 with an OEM damper, but they work extremely well with any aftermarket dampers.

Great, these would be run with Koni yellows. I appreciate your feedback and effort you put into the product.

Edit: I ended up getting ST coil-overs now I need to get some decent track capable tires (along with 10 or so other BMR parts all at once).
 
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BMR Tech

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Nice! ;)

And just so you know, the Koni Yellows were the primary dampers I used when developing the SP065 springs.

Actually, the package was all designed together:

SB041 Front Bar
SB042 Rear Bar
SP065 Springs
Koni Yellows
WL005 Watts Link

Amazing system. I promise.
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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Nice! ;)

And just so you know, the Koni Yellows were the primary dampers I used when developing the SP065 springs.

Actually, the package was all designed together:

SB041 Front Bar
SB042 Rear Bar
SP065 Springs
Koni Yellows
WL005 Watts Link

Amazing system. I promise.

My BMR parts list would drop down to 9 if there's "ADD TO CART" button on the Watts link by the time i put this stuff together as I wouldn't need the Panhard pieces.

So you got some time, Kelly. But don't make it forever!
 

walt6076

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OK - I will order tomorrow. Any reason to do or not to do your UCM001 at the same time? Do I need the second mounting location for the UCA for my application?
 

BMR Tech

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OK - I will order tomorrow. Any reason to do or not to do your UCM001 at the same time? Do I need the second mounting location for the UCA for my application?

The lower position on our mount is for serious racecars, or cars that are not lowered.

So, your application, I do not think you will benefit from our UCM001. (if you have the Steeda UCA Mount already)
 

dc2r

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what is the best grease to use on non spherical bushings that come with bmr products? the shop that installed mine uses something that keep washing out after it rains and i keep having to go back to grease it again :(
 

noldevin

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Kelly, I am working towards a setup similar to the one you gave me earlier in the thread. End goal is the Bilstein B12 set on BMR handling springs.
I have the poly LCAs and just ordered the adjustable UCA and mount and relo brackets.
I am not lowered yet, can I still use the relos on the least aggressive hole to reduce a bit of squat? Or should I wait for the drop to put those on?
 

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