Kelly thanks for the explanation. BMR should take all of this and add it to a FAQ or Knowledge Base on their website. The information is awesome to have.
Suspension Tech: Bring It!
- Thread starter BMR Tech
- Start date
What do you recommend to use for you adjustable upper control arm for the jam nuts and adjuster?
I had a hard time fitting a adjustable wrench in there.
I think the size is 1-1/2 inch?
What do you use?
I consider cutting the handle of a adjustable wrench?
I had a hard time fitting a adjustable wrench in there.
I think the size is 1-1/2 inch?
What do you use?
I consider cutting the handle of a adjustable wrench?
I use channel locks to adjust the center piece (they have a good angle to them, easiest way I have found)
When tightening, I use the combo of a Crescent wrench, and an open ended 1.5" wrench. We have a "combination" 1.5" wrench that we use, it is about 15" long.
If you cannot get to it to tighten it down, after you set the pinion angle....hand tighten the nuts, then drop the rear-end down. You can even disconnect the rear shocks, and hang it down pretty far. That will allow you to use some "ooomph"
I also highly recommend name brand blue Loc tite under the jam nuts.
Hope that helps.
I picked up a stub handled service wrench from amazon - just find the size you need...
Yes, the snap-on one is 1/2" drive. I purchased it used on ebay for something like ~$19.
All right, I've been experimenting with my setup. And I would like more input. My car is N/A, putting out around 430 whp, race weight is 3350ish. Strange single adj in front set at 3, Viking double adj in back set at 3c/5r on drivers side, 4c/5r on passenger side.
Running 27x11.5 15 QTPs at 14 psi, adj U/LCAs with spherical end joints, BMR upper/lower brackets with arms in to hole of each. CJ springs, and launching at 5500 rpm.
Elwood racing in Fayetteville 2: http://youtu.be/X0dFWCf6Dnk
With this setup, I've been consistent 1.6-1.65 60' and 11.5-11.58 @120. I want a better 60'.
I'm thinking about going to 2 then 1 in the front, seeing how it does. I tried it at full off and it was bouncing all the way down the track. In also going to working up on the compression and rebound in the back to see if I can get any more out of it. Thoughts?
All right, I've been experimenting with my setup. And I would like more input. My car is N/A, putting out around 430 whp, race weight is 3350ish. Strange single adj in front set at 3, Viking double adj in back set at 3c/5r on drivers side, 4c/5r on passenger side.
Running 27x11.5 15 QTPs at 14 psi, adj U/LCAs with spherical end joints, BMR upper/lower brackets with arms in to hole of each. CJ springs, and launching at 5500 rpm.
Elwood racing in Fayetteville 2: http://youtu.be/X0dFWCf6Dnk
With this setup, I've been consistent 1.6-1.65 60' and 11.5-11.58 @120. I want a better 60'.
I'm thinking about going to 2 then 1 in the front, seeing how it does. I tried it at full off and it was bouncing all the way down the track. In also going to working up on the compression and rebound in the back to see if I can get any more out of it. Thoughts?
By the looks of your pic, and the video....I would want a little more Anti-Squat. Of course, this is if the tires and track can handle it.
My suggestion is to do the following: (what I would do if I had your car)
Front struts at 2 clicks from soft
Rear Shocks at 4C/7R
UCA in Top Hole
LCA in Middle Hole
Tire PSI @ 12.5 - 14PSI cold.
Launch RPM at 5800RPM minimum.
To get past the 1.6X range in N/A 430 rwhp trim......it "usually" takes 5800+ RPM launches....and a decent amount of Anti-Squat.
One of the reasons I don't really recommend the CJ springs up front.....is because you usually have to run more Rebound stiffness than I prefer......to prevent bouncing/unloading. The BMR front spring is where "its at"
I would also like to see the car on a 28" tire.
then we can hit that thing REALLY hard.
Thanks for the input, I was going to change the LCA mounting point last weekend. But, got sucked into the suspension and tire pressure. The max that I have launched is at 5500ish rpm. I will make the changes and push my launch rpm up
I was running a 28" tire last year, but I wanted to see if the 27" would help my launches.
I'll bite. I have a stock 2014 GT track pack. Looking to start the suspension build.
I will probably have some minor power bolt ons and a tune next summer, and then supercharging and aiming for just shy of 600hp.
It is primarily a year-round daily driver, but I like to hit a few HPDE events per year as well. I would also like to kill the wheel hop that I sometimes experience while accelerating quickly from a stop.
My main complaints on the track are the severe nose dive on braking and rear heave on acceleration. The car does not inspire confidence.
I would like to lower the car about an inch and firm up the ride a bit, and would like adjustable dampening.
My main concern is that I do everything right the first time so that I hopefully don't end up changing the same part multiple times.
I will probably have some minor power bolt ons and a tune next summer, and then supercharging and aiming for just shy of 600hp.
It is primarily a year-round daily driver, but I like to hit a few HPDE events per year as well. I would also like to kill the wheel hop that I sometimes experience while accelerating quickly from a stop.
My main complaints on the track are the severe nose dive on braking and rear heave on acceleration. The car does not inspire confidence.
I would like to lower the car about an inch and firm up the ride a bit, and would like adjustable dampening.
My main concern is that I do everything right the first time so that I hopefully don't end up changing the same part multiple times.
When a customer wants what you have described, I have been very successful at fulfilling their needs with my recommendations - even though the parts that I recommend aren't all my parts (BMR)
In the near future, I will have some springs that would tickle your fancy, but at this time...here is what I recommend personally.
-FRPP P Springs
-Koni Yellows -or- Bilsteins
-GT500 Upper Strut Mounts -or- Vorshlag CC Plates if you want CC adjustment
-BMR Panhard Bar (PHR006)
-BMR Relocation Brackets (CAB005) - *Top or Middle Position
-BMR Lower Control Arms (TCA021)
Then, to top it off.....the new Mack Daddy Sway Bars we just released:
-BMR Front Bar, 5-Way/38mm (SB041)
-BMR Rear Bar, 4-way/25mm (SB042)
This package will give you what I like to call, a "soft spring / big bar" approach. It will be comfortable enough for daily driving, and will give you a grin from ear to ear on road course, AutoX - HPDE's etc.
The combination of the spring rates, and the compression valving on the Koni or Bilsteins...will definitely assist in ridding of that nasty dive.
The Sway Bars will give you the ability to tune in that additional roll stiffness/wheel rate....due to the mild rate of the P-Springs. The Springs will likely give you the look you are after, to boot.
The LCA / Relos....these will assist you in powering through the corners...and slightly aide you in turning, due to the roll steer advantage.
Say goodbye to wheel hop, and sloppy braking and cornering. Be sure to post results after you perform these mods, I love hearing about it!
Alright so I have a 2014 A6 gt on airlift suspension. With just a tune and 28" drag radials I was able to pull a 12.66 in 1765da my 60ft is still 2.1
I have:
BMR upper and mount
BMR LCAs and mounts coming
Just installed cat deletes
My question is where to put the LCAs and UCAs in there holes and my shocks and struts are all 30 way adjustable so where should I have it all lined up at
The car is raced tilted so any help will work thanks in advance
I have:
BMR upper and mount
BMR LCAs and mounts coming
Just installed cat deletes
My question is where to put the LCAs and UCAs in there holes and my shocks and struts are all 30 way adjustable so where should I have it all lined up at
The car is raced tilted so any help will work thanks in advance
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30? LOL
You are just going to have to experiment with those 900 possible adjustment positions. And I thought a 19 way was alot (361)
I can say, if it were me....I'd likely start at around 0-5 in the fronts....and 15-20 in the back. No clue what it will do though!
As for the UCA and Mount / KCA and Brackets....if the car (fender arches) are in the 28.5" range or lower - I recommend the Upper Hole on the UCA Mount, and the Middle on the LCA Brackets.
You are just going to have to experiment with those 900 possible adjustment positions. And I thought a 19 way was alot (361)
I can say, if it were me....I'd likely start at around 0-5 in the fronts....and 15-20 in the back. No clue what it will do though!
As for the UCA and Mount / KCA and Brackets....if the car (fender arches) are in the 28.5" range or lower - I recommend the Upper Hole on the UCA Mount, and the Middle on the LCA Brackets.
Thank you for the help man and I know it's going to be a lot of test and tuning. Would you suggest going 1 by 1 with the adjustment ?
Thank you for the list! You don't think an adjustable UCA is necessary?
Do you have a preference between the Konis and Bilsteins?
I am interested to hear about your new springs. I want to keep the springs relatively soft, but still just slightly stiffer than the stock brembo/track pack springs. I remember hearing that the FRPP springs are softer than the brembo ones.
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