I was preparing to PM you. lol. I assume you can take it from here?
Ford GT500/CJ Cranks - which were double keyed?
- Thread starter 12gt500
- Start date
I was preparing to PM you. lol. I assume you can take it from here?
Good information in here.
What are cars that are making serious power doing for a crank? Going to a billet crank? Does Moldex make one for the 5.4?
What are cars that are making serious power doing for a crank? Going to a billet crank? Does Moldex make one for the 5.4?
Jim...Have you used or seen any cranks that were pinned ? Which way is the best in your opinion . I have pinned crank and fingers crossed ! Thanks
Joe
Which way you going Sam ?
Joe
Which way you going Sam ?
JimIII@jdm
Well-Known Member
No but I did have a conversation with my father and engine builder here after reading about it. They agreed its a good option especially for the guy who wants to do it with the engine already assembled. You just have have a professional handle this because you have to be very precise.
Thanks Jim....A very good pro did the work for me .
After looking at pics of where the factory key sits, I am absolutely going to pin my crank. I plan to really crank up this 4.0L (like 30lbs) and find it's limit, so the balancer and snout are a big concern of mine.
If I could go back in time before I assembled my motor, I would have double keyed the crank, and definitely would have machined the crank for an M14 size (factory is M12) ARP2000 stud, and run a fine thread nut instead of a bolt for even more clamping force.
Here is a great thread on that topic:
Crank Tech
Now, for 99% of everyone out there, this sort of modification isn't necessary. But I feel I'm in that 1% who will be pushing this 4.0L to its limit, and I really don't want to be hindered by a crank failure. So if I can make this a lot stronger than it needs to be, then I will. I'm okay with replacing a clutch, or replacing a broken axle. But I definitely do not want to have to replace a broken crank. It's very costly and time consuming.
Here is a pic of a factory balancer that clearly shows the small press fit area, and that the factory single key only reaches 75% of the keyway, utilizing only the thinnest part of the balancer hub.
If I could go back in time before I assembled my motor, I would have double keyed the crank, and definitely would have machined the crank for an M14 size (factory is M12) ARP2000 stud, and run a fine thread nut instead of a bolt for even more clamping force.
Here is a great thread on that topic:
Crank Tech
Now, for 99% of everyone out there, this sort of modification isn't necessary. But I feel I'm in that 1% who will be pushing this 4.0L to its limit, and I really don't want to be hindered by a crank failure. So if I can make this a lot stronger than it needs to be, then I will. I'm okay with replacing a clutch, or replacing a broken axle. But I definitely do not want to have to replace a broken crank. It's very costly and time consuming.
Here is a pic of a factory balancer that clearly shows the small press fit area, and that the factory single key only reaches 75% of the keyway, utilizing only the thinnest part of the balancer hub.
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After looking at pics of where the factory key sits, I am absolutely going to pin my crank. I plan to really crank up this 4.0L (like 30lbs) and find it's limit, so the balancer and snout are a big concern of mine.
If I could go back in time before I assembled my motor, I would have double keyed the crank, and definitely would have machined the crank for an M14 size (factory is M12) ARP2000 stud, and run a fine thread nut instead of a bolt for even more clamping force.
Here is a great thread on that topic:
Crank Tech
Now, for 99% of everyone out there, this sort of modification isn't necessary. But I feel I'm in that 1% who will be pushing this 4.0L to its limit, and I really don't want to be hindered by a crank failure. So if I can make this a lot stronger than it needs to be, then I will. I'm okay with replacing a clutch, or replacing a broken axle. But I definitely do not want to have to replace a broken crank. It's very costly and time consuming.
Here is a pic of a factory balancer that clearly shows the small press fit area, and that the factory single key only reaches 75% of the keyway, utilizing only the thinnest part of the balancer hub.
I am going to be at 24/25 lbs with my kb 3.6. Is there anything extra you guys think I should do?
You're double keyed already, so just make sure you run a good ARP bolt torqued to a ridiculous amount, and you should be good.
The 4.5 L Whipple is next , so we will see how the pinned method holds when the boost is turned up & rpm RL is 7K.
When my engine was originally rebuilt by Livernois at the end of 2011, I told them I wanted a cobra jet crank. They said there was only one crank. They double keyed it themselves and had the IW dampener made to their specifications with a double keyway, a .0002 smaller inner diameter, and, according to the invoice, remove lead on hub, just a small chamfer to get balancer started, but maintain same ID throughout hub. They finished it off with an ARP 2000 bolt.
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That's why I really want to go to a larger diameter stud. Also, that briefly explains why Ford went to the longer bolt and counter bored crank. On all the previous modulars, the crank bolt was short and threaded right into the snout itself. On our GT500 5.4L's, the longer bolt/counter bore places the anchor point much deeper into the crank and provides a much better clamp force all through the snout.
Great thread and info on these cranks guys,thx for sharing!
Precisely.
Great thread.
As I mentioned in another crank thread, for guys ordering a custom crank, I would look into something like a BBC front snout with double keys. I remember some SBF stroker guys who race blower cars hard (NMRA), mentioning ordering their billet SBF crank that way.
Just a thought.
-J
As I mentioned in another crank thread, for guys ordering a custom crank, I would look into something like a BBC front snout with double keys. I remember some SBF stroker guys who race blower cars hard (NMRA), mentioning ordering their billet SBF crank that way.
Just a thought.
-J
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