Suspension Tech: Bring It!

spdracr0

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Well, I do actually have people that pay me to get their cars to hook - but that's another story in itself. It usually requires me being there physically. ;)

You know my opinions......We need a drag spring like yesterday IMHO....1.2xx or bust and I am nowhere close...And I am serious, I am gonna need you one day on weekend here shortly, I am gonna drive to Fla....pack your tools and tell them not to have the track on kill...
 

hoodley

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are the strange rear adjustables not as good as the vikikgs? obviously not or you would say so, but why? there is a huge gap in price i think
 

BMR Tech

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When do expect the sway bars to be available? And will they clear your relocation brackets

The front should be about 2 months. The rear about 4-5.

Everything should clear fine. :beer:

are the strange rear adjustables not as good as the vikikgs? obviously not or you would say so, but why? there is a huge gap in price i think

I wouldn't say "better"....but, a double adjustble rear shock is a good idea when looking to dial in your suspension on an S197.

If the Strange were double adjustable, they would be the same price or more expensive....so you really cannot compare the $89 Strange S6008 to the $175 Viking DA.
 

Shiken_Feddas

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are the strange rear adjustables not as good as the vikikgs? obviously not or you would say so, but why? there is a huge gap in price i think

Strange shocks are just fine. More adjust-ability with the Vikings are going to help fine tune everything that much more though.
 

03SonicBlueGT

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I recently sold my ’03 Mach 1 and hopped into a ’13 Premium GT Track Pack. What a machine. I want to do suspension/drivetrain mods FIRST, unlike I did with my Mach. I’ve got about a 6-700 dollar budget. The car already has lowering springs. It will be driven in nice weather only, and see the drag strip a handful of times during the summer. My question to you is, where to start? Am I okay with staying with the stock Track Pack shocks and struts? I know I need an adjustable PHB etc. I just need to know where to start and some pointers. This car wheel hops BAD with this weak rear suspension. It has 9,200 miles on it as well. Thanks!
 

BMR Tech

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I recently sold my ’03 Mach 1 and hopped into a ’13 Premium GT Track Pack. What a machine. I want to do suspension/drivetrain mods FIRST, unlike I did with my Mach. I’ve got about a 6-700 dollar budget. The car already has lowering springs. It will be driven in nice weather only, and see the drag strip a handful of times during the summer. My question to you is, where to start? Am I okay with staying with the stock Track Pack shocks and struts? I know I need an adjustable PHB etc. I just need to know where to start and some pointers. This car wheel hops BAD with this weak rear suspension. It has 9,200 miles on it as well. Thanks!

Brian! I was just getting around to catching up on emails - I have been down with the Flu for almost two weeks, unfortunately. Anyhow, this would be a good place to answer for you.

You will want an adjustable panhard bar. Our PHR006 is our #1 selling component here at BMR, and likely the most commonly found panhard bar under S197's on the road today.

Lower Control Arms will tighten up the rear axle, and help with wheel hop and increased traction. The SOTP feeling with these is incredible, too. For these, I recommend our TCA019.

Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - simply put, these are THE best bang for the buck when looking to increase the performance of your S197's suspension. These pieces will help correct the LCA angle, after you lower the car. These brackets help with wheel-hop, and of course, promote traction like you would not believe. The part # on these is CAB005.

Upper Control Arm; extremely important piece to the puzzle, as well. You can typically do well by just upgrading the LCA and the LCA Brackets....but words cannot describe the force seen by the UCA within the S197 3-link suspnension. Not only does this piece see a lot of pulling force, but it is also crucial to adjust your drivetrain/line working angles after lowering your car.
The piece I recommend for this is the UTCA032. This is the same piece that can be found on a large # of the record setting/holding 2001+ Mustangs....and is also the piece that comes standard on the Shelby S1000. :beer:

Here is a quick before and after:

2013 Mustang GT M6 Brembo Package Wheel Hop 1 - YouTube

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop Cured 1 - YouTube

Of course, when you get the UCA.....you also want to get the UCA Mount, which is the UCM002.

These pieces will be your best starting point. They will offer for adjustment, increase the rigidity/stabilization of the rear axle assembly, help control wheel-hop, and help promote/maximize traction.

Hope that helps!
 
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03SonicBlueGT

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Thanks a bunch. Didn't know if my email went through. Checking into the LCA you suggested.. aren't poly/poly LCA's a huge no no? Something about increased strain on the rear axle torque box? I read you need a spherical bearing on the axle side, for 99-04's. (Again, that's all I know.) Thanks!
 

BMR Tech

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Thanks a bunch. Didn't know if my email went through. Checking into the LCA you suggested.. aren't poly/poly LCA's a huge no no? Something about increased strain on the rear axle torque box? I read you need a spherical bearing on the axle side, for 99-04's. (Again, that's all I know.) Thanks!

Poly/Poly are not huge no-no's on an S197 3-link style suspension.

On the '79-'04 Triangulated 4-Link, I never recommend a full Poly Combo, though. That system is "bind city"...and really needs bearings on the axle side of the control arms.

This S197 is completely different, in a good way. The Torque boxes are fine, and poly is fine.
 

03SonicBlueGT

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excellent. thanks! also, do i need to pick up a magnetic angle finder from you guys too? I want to make sure the pinion angle is good. Is there a guide on how to use one? Never messed with an angle finder. Thanks for the help!
 

BMR Tech

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You can use an app on your phone. Personally, I use the app called "leveler" on Android Phones. It even comes in handy when hanging pictures/etc around the house, for my wife. ;)

PinionAngle-1pcShaft-1.jpg
 

Voltwings

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Ok, i'm having some (what i feel are) issues with my setup and not sure if it is the suspension or not. As it sits, my car has:

Suspension
1" drop on Eibach springs
BMR LCA's and brackets on First hole
BMR ADJ PHB with the axle properly centered under the car

Power:
Airraid CAI
Lethal performance H-pipe
BAMA tune

The issue I'm having is when i shift from 2-3 and 3-4 the ass end will kinda kick out and the tires will chirp. Sometimes on the 2-3 shift its been bad enough i feel my car actually kind of bunny hops. I have a barton shifter, so i am shifting the hell out of it, but i just dont feel my car should be chirping going into 4th gear at my power level... I have 275 Nitto Motivos on all 4 corners, which i know are not a "Great" tire, but they're supposed to be a pretty decent all season.

So far i've been told it was because i had no panhard bar but, after installing one, thats been ruled out. I've been told its because im shifting it hard with the Barton and thats just the nature of RWD, (this is my first rwd performance vehicle). Lastly i've been told i just have shitty tires, which it very well may be... Not sure if theres any more suspension i should be adding, or any adjusting i should be doing to what i have, but any insight would be great, thanks.
 

COBRA////

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Hey guys is it true that if we spin our upper strut mounts it will fix our negative camber?On my 2011 I had full coilovers.But on the 13 Im going with 1.5" drop for now.
 

SL0W5.0

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Nice to meet you today Kelly, already have an appointment with racing integration to put all those new shinny goodies in!
 

Squamishcoyote

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switching from sportlines to sp009's and dspecs to viking d/a's (keeping dspecs out front) , other suspension parts are bmr lcarb(welded in), upr lca's hiem joint on both ends, spherical diff bushing, poly uca with mount that keeps it at stock location. looking for a baseline for the vikings and which hole on lcarbs
 

IamRacerX

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Ok, i'm having some (what i feel are) issues with my setup and not sure if it is the suspension or not. As it sits, my car has:

Suspension
1" drop on Eibach springs
BMR LCA's and brackets on First hole
BMR ADJ PHB with the axle properly centered under the car

Power:
Airraid CAI
Lethal performance H-pipe
BAMA tune

The issue I'm having is when i shift from 2-3 and 3-4 the ass end will kinda kick out and the tires will chirp. Sometimes on the 2-3 shift its been bad enough i feel my car actually kind of bunny hops. I have a barton shifter, so i am shifting the hell out of it, but i just dont feel my car should be chirping going into 4th gear at my power level... I have 275 Nitto Motivos on all 4 corners, which i know are not a "Great" tire, but they're supposed to be a pretty decent all season.

So far i've been told it was because i had no panhard bar but, after installing one, thats been ruled out. I've been told its because im shifting it hard with the Barton and thats just the nature of RWD, (this is my first rwd performance vehicle). Lastly i've been told i just have shitty tires, which it very well may be... Not sure if theres any more suspension i should be adding, or any adjusting i should be doing to what i have, but any insight would be great, thanks.

My stock boss chirps the tires into 4th... that is a product of tbe short gearing and quick shifting imo....
 

StangingAround

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Nov 1, 2012
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Installed eibach shocks/pro springs and my alignment is within spec but a bit off in the front (-.9 passenger side, -1.4 driver side). How do I get the driver side alignment to match the passenger side? It doesn't look like there is any camber adjustment but I was wondering if I loosened the spindle nuts and kind of banged it out a bit more it would shore up some of that negative camber. Thoughts?
 

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