Suspension Tech: Bring It!

BMR Tech

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hoodley, I am surprised the lowest hole in the LCA Brackets are working for you, on street tires. You must really be utilizing your clutch? Which is awesome, but, if you are good with your clutch...the middle position will probably get you a better ET.

Based on what you wrote, I would recommend the UCA/Mount with the UCA in the Upper position. I also recommend removing the front sway-bar, and using a single adjustable front strut like the Strange S6009LM. Id' set them to 3/4 to full loose.

After those mods, I'd grab a set of Viking Double Adjustable Shocks, B226. These will help tremendously with maintaining traction on a stiff compound tire.

After those, and meeting your goal, come back in here to take it a step further. ;)
 

hoodley

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the middle hole? thats interesting, i guess i was thinking about it wrong. Oh and the sway bar is gone, forgot to add that. so i will be trying middle hole, it feel like it grabs good then the hard tire unloads it so i was curious about frt or rear shocks first. Thanks alot for info, will check back sunday and let u know how middle hole does!
THANKS FOR ADVISE THAT IS AWESOME YOU ARE WILLING TO HELP FOR FREE!!
 

BMR Tech

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Well, I do actually have people that pay me to get their cars to hook - but that's another story in itself. It usually requires me being there physically. ;)

Just doing my job.

Yes, the lowest hole will cause a great initial bite, then unload. Having the LCA that steep (angle) will lift the car, then when the car comes down - the force on the tires is removed = tire spin.

While we are on that topic. Checkt his picture out:

AntiSquat1.jpg

AntiSquat2.jpg


Then....imagine standing on a scale, body straight. Your feet are the tires, your legs are the suspension, and body...well, the body of the car.

If you are standing straight and squat very quickly, what happens to the reading on the scale?

Now...being squatted.....shoot up to the straight up position, quickly. What happens to the reading on the scale?

Duh duh, chhhh
 

tvanlant

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Suspension component question:

I have gone a best of 10.72 @ 132 on stock suspension (minus sway bar relocation). Stock ride height, 28" rear tires, 26" skinnies on the front.
My car hooks initially, but spins on the 1-2 shift (auto). I drive it a lot on the street, but do go to the track frequently.

What would be a good a good start to upgrade the suspension?
 
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dirtyd88

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If you are standing straight and squat very quickly, what happens to the reading on the scale?

Now...being squatted.....shoot up to the straight up position, quickly. What happens to the reading on the scale?

Duh duh, chhhh

I get fatter. :lol1:

We need to have a physics section of SVTP to explain some of the things like this. With Pro-E models and animation videos. :D
 

Jonberlin

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I know the forum is full of info on this I just can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. I already have a panhard bar and sr lowering springs, I also want to get LCAs but I'm not sure what else I need. The springs are supposedly lowering front and rear 1,5". Camber bolts or relocation brackets or both?? I read good things about bmr, can't find a complete kit though. Being that I'm in Canada, shipping isn't free and I want to order a whole bunch at once.
From what I understand from your web site is that I should get the anti wheel hop kit...
Is that everything I need for my dd to have fun with?? :)
Thanks,
Jonny
 

Jbstang87

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Kelly. I have koni. Str.ts but am mostly a drag and street driver. I am thinking of going viking shocks in the rear for adjustability at the strip. Can i run them fine with koni str.ts in the front? Other question, am I really losing alot of 60ft with the str.ts? Not trying to break records, just would like an opinion. Would like to 1.6. Is that possible with the str.ts? Thanks
 

Fredxin

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Nice can't wait. BTW thanks for the viking/strange/BMR combo, even I am still on stock tires I hook up way better than before. Improve 2/10 of second as well.
 

ebrow21

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I appreciate you making this thread, some informative tech! If I could pick your brain, I have a question about shock settings, based on my last track experience.

Rundown of car.
12 whipple gt, 73mm, 2c, has run a best of 10.11 @136, 1.45 60

Suspension at pb time.
Bmr front sway delete
K springs
Lca's
Che axle brace and reloc brackets. Only one adjustment hole.
Strano rear swaybar, stiffest setting.

Added:
Bmr k-member
Longtubes
Viking double adj. rears
No tune changes. Vmp tune.

Went back to the track last week after the additions. Initial setting for the shocks: 9c 6r, gathered from a few other threads.

Only made one clean 60' pass, track went downhill, and had a belt issue. Left at about 2.5k on the converter, car left straight, smooth, no drama. Soon after the shift to second the car turned sideways. Pedaled it and coasted. Funny part, 1.43 60', a new pb. Much less drama compared to the 1.45 on stock shocks.

Sorry for the roundabout way of asking, but do you think I should keep the initial shock settings the same for the next track outing? I intend on running again this weekend, during the day. I'm leaning towards prep and weather as the reasons the car acted the way it did, but I very well could be missing something.

Thanks!
 

tkeinia

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wondering if wheel hop normal on wet roads with bmr rear upper mount and upper arm, bmr lowers, relo bracke and adj panhard?

when wet and taking off i still get some wheel hop. is that normal?
 

blackbeast12

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wondering if wheel hop normal on wet roads with bmr rear upper mount and upper arm, bmr lowers, relo bracke and adj panhard?

when wet and taking off i still get some wheel hop. is that normal?

Not if your suspension is set correctly. it shouldn't wheel hop on any surface condition! My car used to wheel hop in the wet but not the dry, but since I've done my suspension wheel hop anywhere is completely gone!
 
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drkmrkiv

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My setup doesn't give me confidence going around turns. The rear end is still squirrelly and bounces around...

I've got a '12 gt track pack
Koni yellows (full soft), bmr springs and pan hard bar.

I still have various clunks and squeeks going on... But if you've got any advice...
I would say it is now worse than stock. The quality
 

blackbeast12

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My setup doesn't give me confidence going around turns. The rear end is still squirrelly and bounces around...

I've got a '12 gt track pack
Koni yellows (full soft), bmr springs and pan hard bar.

I still have various clunks and squeeks going on... But if you've got any advice...
I would say it is now worse than stock. The quality

If you want to go around corners with confidence get a watts link, of course your panhard bar and brace goes a away with a watts link. Let me tell you it made world of difference for cornering and stability. Also heavy duty adjustable sway bars make a big difference to!
 
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11socal50

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thoughts on hotchkis sway bars part #22102?
2011 GT auto, with BMR springs, steeda pro action shocks, BMR LCAs + relocation brackets, BMR UCA + mount, Steeda panhard bar + brace
255/45 continental extremecontact dw on stock wheels. occasionally taken into the canyons out here in southern california
 
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BMR Tech

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wondering if wheel hop normal on wet roads with bmr rear upper mount and upper arm, bmr lowers, relo bracke and adj panhard?

when wet and taking off i still get some wheel hop. is that normal?

I would not say normal, but, it does not surprise me. In order to eliminate wheel hop/tire shake 100% - you have to maximize both traction AND axle stability.

You can maximize axle stability all you want, but you cannot really maximize traction on a wet road.

So yes, wheel-hop on wet/damp surfaces is not abnormal, regardless of your suspension and chassis modifications.

My setup doesn't give me confidence going around turns. The rear end is still squirrelly and bounces around...

I've got a '12 gt track pack
Koni yellows (full soft), bmr springs and pan hard bar.

I still have various clunks and squeeks going on... But if you've got any advice...
I would say it is now worse than stock. The quality

My first advice would be to try and adjust the struts and shocks, that is what they are made for. For the Koni Yellow / BMR Spring combo....I like the fronts at about 3/4 and the rears at 1/2.

thoughts on hotchkis sway bars part #22102?
2011 GT auto, with BMR springs, steeda pro action shocks, BMR LCAs + relocation brackets, BMR UCA + mount, Steeda panhard bar + brace
255/45 continental extremecontact dw on stock wheels. occasionally taken into the canyons out here in southern california

Our bars are in testing now, so I would hold out. They share some similarities to the Hotchkis pieces, too.

To answer - I think they are great pieces.
 

BMR Tech

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Kelly. I have koni. Str.ts but am mostly a drag and street driver. I am thinking of going viking shocks in the rear for adjustability at the strip. Can i run them fine with koni str.ts in the front? Other question, am I really losing alot of 60ft with the str.ts? Not trying to break records, just would like an opinion. Would like to 1.6. Is that possible with the str.ts? Thanks

Koni's of any sort, are one of the last things I recommend for cutting a good sixty foot time. Is it possible, yes.

The best bang for the buck is Strange Singles up front, and Viking Doubles out back. I have been pushing this combo for quite a while, and you can tell how well it works - as its a daily mentioned combo now. lol
 

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