Suspension Tech: Bring It!

Gpcalero

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So I am waiting to install a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft soon, hopefully next week...

How important is a driveshaft safety loop and do you guys offer one that will clear headers?

I have ARH longtubes and I've heard that yours doesn't fit.

Also, how does it affect my ground clearance, as I am installing eibach pro street coilovers at the same time.
 

wr450

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Kelly i posted earlier today about my roush uca that i installed on my stock ride height "13" in the fall then lowered the car 1" couple months later so now i need to loosen the bushing and retorque. Question is the suspension needs to be loaded when i do this can i just jack it up by the rear axel or do i need to get the front up too and have car level. The directions say just the forward bushing roush techs say its too hard to get to so just do the rear should i just try to do both. I bought your poly poly adj. panhard bar when i did the springs and shocks lca will be this spring whats your recommendation.i like the handling part more than 1/4 mile poly poly or poly rod
 

86Fbody

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It is true. Poly can/will bind. It is the level at which it does it, that can be of concern. Many people don't understand what little movement there is at the middle of the axle. Ever hold a pen/pencil with your thumb and pointer finger, int he middle, and make the ends go crazy? Both ends move like crazy, yet the area where your fingers are, barely move. Crazy how that works!

670px-Do-the-Rubber-Pencil-Trick-Step-1.jpg


You are fine with what you have, just run 'em. If and when you want an awesome bearing upgrade, I am sure we will have them available. We have (2) UCA that we are testing right now.

Thanks for the info, I was extremely interested in the monster spherical bearing arm you were coming out with but a good deal came along. I had also read on BMO that replacing the pumpkin's bearing with a spherical like what Steeda sells is a good combo with a poly arm, any thoughts on this?
 

pickles

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Can't seem to get a consistent answer on this..

I've heard from some people that the GT500 strut mounts will lower my car .5"

Others have said that is wrong, it's actually the 2005-10 struts that will lower the car .5" compared to the 2011+ struts

Which is true? (If any)

I already have GT500 strut mounts sitting in the garage, and I had planned to buy the 2005-10 Strange 10 way adjustable struts. But if they will lower the car even more I'll have to look at something else.
 

Yagermeister

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Pickles I have that same setup (gt500 mounts with Strange) and there was no measurable drop. I currently have gt front springs and v6 rear springs and sit around 28.2" - 28.8" all around the car while on Brembo stock wheels
 

11socal50

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@pickles I think the additional .5" that you have heard about is from 05-10 koni strt struts. There was a thread about it not too long ago
 

hopony

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Kelly

Would like more traction for my daily driven paxton mt82 car. Right now it has stock suspension except for adjustable lca's. I am currently running 275/40r18's on 18x10 rims. I have to run street tires because of the mileage I drive. Where should I start?
 

'14 Shelby

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Sorry if I missed this in a similar post but currently my suspension is the stock GT track pack. I have Eibach Pro springs. Won't be changing shocks & struts anytime soon.
I want the best set up for the street with minimal impact on ride quality. Obviously I want to improve traction and improve handling or at least not loose any. Which LCA/UCA combo is best? Also which relo brackets are needed? Also with the track pack do I need panhard relo?
 

DSG2003SVT

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Watt's link or PHR relocation? I back road much more often than I will ever track, and I'd like to eliminate rearend skip as much as possible when cornering over bumpy surfaces.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions.
 
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Torchy

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Kelly need some help.

I am installing your upper adjustable arm and mount in my garage and my garage floor is sloped. How do I work around that?

And I don't have anywhere else to do it. Driveway has a much bigger slope.
 

86Fbody

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@Gpcalero, I may be wrong but I have heard of people buying a CF DS so that they don't have to get a loop since if it breaks it won't hit the ground and come back up at you
 

BMR Tech

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Why would someone not want to install a DS Loop?

Anyhow, I will answer all of these questions tomorrow when I get to the office.
 

Jabooh1

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I have a 2013 Laguna Seca lowered on Steeda springs. I am looking to upgrade the shocks/struts. The OEM (Tokico D-Spec I think) are ok but I am looking for something that is stiffer on the highest setting. I usually drive around on 2-3. What would be an upgrade and why?
 

BMR Tech

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I'm excited. Hope my parts are in the mail and we should be getting it in soon.

Ah! I figured out who you are now. The parts are on the way! Or....should be there any time? Post pics of them!

I can't wait until spring to install all my suspension. Drop springs, adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms and relocation brackets, and radiator support. Awesome quality parts! Thanks Kelly

I can't wait either. I expect a phone call explaining how badass the car works. :beer:

When does the spherical bearing UCA for the 11-14 GT come out??

It is in testing now. Should be soon. We are working hard at releasing a few sweet components. Trust me, we want them available sooner than anyone!

will I need lca relocation brackets for a 1 inch drop I plan on lowering the rear only to level the car out

"Need"....not necessarily. You will want them though. I wouldn't drop my car over 3/4" and not use them, they are my favorite part we manufacture. :rockon:

kelly for a DD that has not seen the track yet, but may, are adjustable LCA necessary

No. I recommend seeing what your thrust angle is, before purchasing LCA. If it is outside of the range of -.2 to .2....I highly suggest grabbing them.

So I am waiting to install a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft soon, hopefully next week...

How important is a driveshaft safety loop and do you guys offer one that will clear headers?

I have ARH longtubes and I've heard that yours doesn't fit.

Also, how does it affect my ground clearance, as I am installing eibach pro street coilovers at the same time.

Unfortunately, the BMR loop does not agree with the location that ARH chooses to place their 02 sensors. I have asked them to move the bungs, but they said it is not as easy as it sounds. I have heard they may just offer their own loop? The only way the BMR loop works with the ARH's...to my knowledge, is, if you flip the ARH X-Pipe around. I know people do it.

Kelly i posted earlier today about my roush uca that i installed on my stock ride height "13" in the fall then lowered the car 1" couple months later so now i need to loosen the bushing and retorque. Question is the suspension needs to be loaded when i do this can i just jack it up by the rear axel or do i need to get the front up too and have car level. The directions say just the forward bushing roush techs say its too hard to get to so just do the rear should i just try to do both. I bought your poly poly adj. panhard bar when i did the springs and shocks lca will be this spring whats your recommendation.i like the handling part more than 1/4 mile poly poly or poly rod

The UCA bolts need to be loosened and retightened with the car on it's wheels, as level as possible. Drive-on lift is the best and easiest way. You can also make some stacked wood/blocks and put the car on them, thats how I do it, when I don't use the lift here at the shop.

Thanks for the info, I was extremely interested in the monster spherical bearing arm you were coming out with but a good deal came along. I had also read on BMO that replacing the pumpkin's bearing with a spherical like what Steeda sells is a good combo with a poly arm, any thoughts on this?

The Steeda diff bearing, paired with our massive poly UCA (UTCA032) is actually one of my favorite UCA combinations, for all around use. That said, the bearing in the diff, can and will cause havoc to a poly UCA bushing.

Can't seem to get a consistent answer on this..

I've heard from some people that the GT500 strut mounts will lower my car .5"

Others have said that is wrong, it's actually the 2005-10 struts that will lower the car .5" compared to the 2011+ struts

Which is true? (If any)

I already have GT500 strut mounts sitting in the garage, and I had planned to buy the 2005-10 Strange 10 way adjustable struts. But if they will lower the car even more I'll have to look at something else.

Never heard of GT500 mounts dropping the car. I guess I could measure some, I have them here.

The only thing I have seen consistently drop the front of an S197, are the Koni struts. Not sure if it is in their design, or just ironic. IMO, a Koni strut will cause about .250 to .500" drop, additionally.

Strange makes a 2011+ Specific Strut, so I have heard. I like the GT500/Strange combo myself.....but, if you are worried about ride-height issues...it would be safe to just get 2011+ Specific stuff.

@pickles I think the additional .5" that you have heard about is from 05-10 koni strt struts. There was a thread about it not too long ago

I tend to agree.

Kelly

Would like more traction for my daily driven paxton mt82 car. Right now it has stock suspension except for adjustable lca's. I am currently running 275/40r18's on 18x10 rims. I have to run street tires because of the mileage I drive. Where should I start?

If it is stock ride-height, and you don't plan on lowering it, you will want to grab the UCA and UCA Mount....and install the UCA in the lowest position. You will enjoy it, I promise. :burnout:

Sorry if I missed this in a similar post but currently my suspension is the stock GT track pack. I have Eibach Pro springs. Won't be changing shocks & struts anytime soon.
I want the best set up for the street with minimal impact on ride quality. Obviously I want to improve traction and improve handling or at least not loose any. Which LCA/UCA combo is best? Also which relo brackets are needed? Also with the track pack do I need panhard relo?

No need for Panhard relo.

You want these:

TCA019
CAB005
UTCA032
UCM002
PHR006

That will do wonders, both in results and the feeling you get when pushing the car hard.

Watt's link or PHR relocation? I back road much more often than I will ever track, and I'd like to eliminate rearend skip as much as possible when cornering over bumpy surfaces.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions.

You are quite welcome.

As for the "skip" - a Watts Link is ultimately the best way around it...if just comparing the PHR to the Watts. That is why we are working on a Watts to hopefully release for 2014.

You can also use softer compound tires, some adjustable struts/shocks and a slightly stiffer rear spring to help alleviate it, but it may not work 100%.

Kelly need some help.

I am installing your upper adjustable arm and mount in my garage and my garage floor is sloped. How do I work around that?

And I don't have anywhere else to do it. Driveway has a much bigger slope.

You can set your pinion angle on a slope....and it should "work"....just ensure the tires are loaded up into the car. If you cannot do that, you need to set the pinion angle on a drive-on lift.

1.41 60ft leaving easy. BMR anti-roll bar and BMR lowers.

:rockon: Veddy Nice.

I have a 2013 Laguna Seca lowered on Steeda springs. I am looking to upgrade the shocks/struts. The OEM (Tokico D-Spec I think) are ok but I am looking for something that is stiffer on the highest setting. I usually drive around on 2-3. What would be an upgrade and why?

Koni Yellows is your answer.

Why? Because they are designed for people like you. They have aggressive compression, and "can" be very aggressive on Rebound, when adjusting. The Koni Yellows are my favorite strut/shock combo for someone looking for more stiffness and increased handling, without going coilovers.
 

Waxxon

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I think the Koni STR.T, or the Strange Adjustables would work well for your combo. The Strange would be my choice, if you want the best "overall" performance / adjustment ability. Can't beat either combo, for the price.

For strictly street car, would you recommend the STR.T's or Strange Adjustables over the Koni Yellows? I've been set on picking up the yellows for awhile now but would likely set them on full soft and forget them. Think the extra cash might be a waste.
 

BMR Tech

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I like them all (Yellows, STR.T's and Stranges)

I would base it on - what you care most about....traction or handling.

If traction, go Strange. If handling, go Koni STR.T
 

5.0_SD

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...That is why we are working on a Watts to hopefully release for 2014.
Kelly, I don't want to hear "hopefully" lol. As per our discussion a few weeks ago, I'm eagerly awaiting this and then a torque arm from you guys so that I can have almost all BMR suspension components, both front and rear (still probably going for the Cortex coil overs and hopefully that's it from them since BMR will have the rest...eventually...hopefully, lol).

Bill (from Wildwood)
 

DSG2003SVT

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What sort of price range and release date are you shooting for with the watt's link? Torque arm would be very nice too.
 

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