Suspension Tech: Bring It!

BMR Tech

Active Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2011
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So....we are selling record amounts of S197 Suspension product right now, yet, people aren't needing my assistance any more?

What tha?

Bring some tech questions. I am all ears (eyes)

Surely someone is having traction issues with all this HP being made!

:beer:

HERE IS THE BMR "Pinion Angle" Video. It's easy peasy stuff.

BMR Suspension's S197 Mustang Driveline Angle Video - "Pinion Angle"


STOCK S197 Upper Control Arm Wheel-Hop Madness:VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDJ92ZXax6Y

SAME CAR AS ABOVE, WITH BMR UCA and MOUNT: BYE WHEEL HOP!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gLQ7Fexj2c



****I am going to copy and paste most of the Q&A's here - to make it easy for everyone. Hopefully it helps!!!!

Would an ARB help out a N/A car?

They often do, and often don't. It depends on a few things. Springs, shocks, struts, launch style/rpm, etc.

I could best answer this, if I saw a video of the car. IMO, once a car gets past mid 11's with a manual trans....they need an ARB (this is generic, but close).. With an Auto, they typically start becoming a good investment when you get into the 10's, solidly.

OK, you asked for it LOL....I recently installed the double adjustable sperichal lca, and the adjustable uca, and mount.....this is a stock ride height car.......what would be the next steps for improved traction

N/A A6 with a circle d 4C

That's tough. I would need to know what the car is doing. It is very hard to blindly recommend additional parts, other than those listed, if I do not know how the car is reacting. If I had to blindly guess....adjustable front struts, UCA in the upper position, LCA in the top of the 3 holes...and some weight removal. That would do well. I think tuning would provide just as much improvement, as well as launch technique. Of course, the "system" or "package" is what makes it work at the end of the day.

When lowering the car, which is more important to address first (if its relevant): Getting an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the axle, or an adjustable UCA to re-align the pinion angle? (i already have LCA's and brackets.)

Actually, I rank them similar. When installing aftermarket suspension components, I HIGHLY recommend the axle being perfectly centered at static ride-height. When the axle is pushed/bias to one side...it puts strain into multiple suspension and drive train components; no bueno!

Same for pinion angle.

Alright. I thought I read LCA,a should be installed with the suspension loaded at ride height. So I can install them with the front rolled up on ramps and jack stands under the rear axles?

And for a bolt on power street car that is lowered on bmr springs and tokico d specs, which bracket hole should the LCAs be mounted?

You can torque a floating style bushing/sleeve however you wish. Of course, we always tell people to TQ them loaded....but there are a few reasons behind this. When you install aftermarket UCA/LCA/PHR etc....the ONLY bolt that NEEDS to be torqued at TRUE ride-height/load...is the rear most UCA bolt to the differential.

For your car, I recommend starting in the middle position of the BMR Relo Brackets. It is usually the best position. Not always, though.

****THOSE READING****
Speaking of torquing at ride-height. When you have jackstands under your A-Arms, and rear axle....the suspension is NOT LOADED fully. It is partially loaded. You cannot fully load the suspension / achieve static ride-height.....without having the full weight of the car sit on the front and rear tires. :beer:

Here's one for you.... Best sway-bar setup for auto-X?

Currently available, if I personally had to pick, I would do the Eibach 11+ Adjustables. Bang for the buck, and just really good performing parts. I'm not huge on their springs, but, their bars are nice.

We are going to release ours sometime this year. We have taken so long, for a good reason. :rolling:

Best setup for low rolls and auto x? I have bc coils and a phb with heim joints so far.

Ouch, that is a little more complicated than I expected. That question is a little too broad. I would say, set the car up for its primary use first....then adjust the mod list from there. You can have a GREAT auto-x set-up....then swap rear tires and unbolt the front sway bar, loosen front struts, and go fast from a roll or a drag strip. It's actually easy.

Explain how ICM brackets work?

Hmmm... It would take me atleast 10,000 words.

This should help.....but it is very general/basic.

AntiSquat1.jpg


i have brm springs on my 12 gt/cs...on stock hardware...my ride is only bouncy at about 70-85mph over small rolling dips in the road...i hate this...what do i need to upgrade to fix this...

Hmm. BRM springs? Never heard of 'em!

It's okay, I am still "feeling" it from New Years, too. :beer:

So - everything is stock, except the BMR Springs....right? If so, then you honestly may need to replace the front struts to cure your issue. Not really sure why some people experience this, and some do not. I would say that most do, but some don't realize or pay attention.

If you cannot decide on struts, I would be happy to assist you.

Kelly,

Add these to the list since a lot of guys seem to ask..I did a lot of trial and error getting my set-up right and all this info in one place would have been nice:

LCA Relo Brackets: Which hole for what kind of drop...In other words, how much should the LCA's be angled down from the body mount to the rear axle?

Adjustable UCA: What mounting hole should be used for which types of set-ups?

Pinion Angle: What angle is ideal for the the best overall compromise between performance and least amount of NVH...M6 and A6.

I understand there is NO SINGLE answer for each question due to the endless combinations and set-ups guys are running....just looking for a starting point for those who are looking to get a good starting point when installing rear suspension components.

Thanks

LCA Relos: Here's the deal. GENERALLY speaking....you want to multiply the amount you drop the car, by 1.5 to 2...to get the amount which you want to lower the LCA down. This is just from experience....and I am NOT saying everyone needs to do so. For example, if you drop the car 1"....a 2" LCA drop is typically the best way to go. For a larger drop, I see that the drop X 1.5 seems to be more realistic. Of course, this is just a function of the geometry/properties of suspension movement.

*A lot of this depends on the position of the UCA, as well. With a BMR UCA Mount...using the UPPER most position....the 1.5 or 2 factor is almost always perfect... For those reading, our LCA positions are 2", 3" and 4" from the factory mounting point.

It goes SOOO much deeper - but this will get people to an excellent starting point. You won't see anyone else, ever, before I just typed this.....tell you / post that info. If they did, I told them over the phone. These are the type of things I have to conjure up, because I speak to an astronomical amount of people each and every day. At the end of the day, LCA angle needs to be adjusted to see what works best. That is always better than anything I can tell someone.

Adjustable UCA:
This relates to the LCA mounting point. On a lowered car, I ALWAYS like to see the stock, or upper most position on the BMR UCA Mount, be utilized....while using LCA Brackets to adjust for maximized traction. We are likely the only company that specifically designs our upper mounting point on our UCA Bracket, for a lowered car. It is actually raised slightly, compared to stock.

The lower position on our UCA Mount, this is almost always reserved (recommendaed by me) for people who have a stock ride-height car, AND NO LCA Brackets. That said, I do have people who experience awesome results on a lowered car, using the lower position on the UCA mount, with the top hole on the BMR brackets.....but it's not optimal to mix. That results in a much to severe Anti-Squat setting.

Moral - Stock height, use BMR UCA Mount in lower hole / no relos. Lowered, use upper spot on BMR mount, with relos.

Pinion Angle: First off, I want to post this. Everyone should use this....it has been a life saver for me. Ignore anything else you see, this is what you do. The debate comes into play, when talking about "what" to set it at...
PinionAngle-1pcShaft-1.jpg


Again, something I conjured up. This is likely the most common topic for me at the office. I am going to end up making a video. Pinion angle is likely the easiest thing ever, people just severely over-complicate it.

That said.....I recommend in that picture. The REAL deal is, you want 0 degrees. Unfortunately, you cannot always have 0 degrees... You have to pick, 0 degrees when putting around town, then have bind under WOT/Load....or do you want -2, -1, etc....then 0 degrees when abusing the car. Its a tough call, I usually leave the end decision up to the customers. What I will state, is, I do not like to see more than 3 degrees pinion angle on any combo, ever.

I've got a set of BBK LCAs but I haven't seen a specific relo bracket for them. Do you know of one I could use?

If they are the ones I am thinking about, they sure do look a heck of a lot like ours. So - I am fairly confident our Relo Brackets will fit with the BBK LCA. I guess the better answer is, our Brackets work with any LCA that will fit a factory S197.

I have read that with modest BMR-type lowering it is not necessary to adjust pinion angle if you are using a CV-equipped one piece driveshaft such as a Dynotech. Is this true?

Ehhh....I'll save that for the DS makers. I always recommend having proper working angles on/with your drive train.

how does bmr compenents (i.e. LCA UCA RELO brackets etc.) react to air suspension like the AIRREX air struts and shocks setup? how you guys ever tested air suspension?

Never tested the air suspension stuff.

I would say it would be no different.

I have a question...I have a KB 2.8 supercharger on my stock geared, stock converter A6 car. My suspension isn't ideal for drag racing (Sportlines, Koni Sports) but on a 275/60-15 MT Drag Radial, has managed a respectable 1.55 60'. Since I'm not experiencing any tire spin, are there any suspension improvements I can make that will result in a better 60' time? I think my limits right now are dictated by my choice of gear and converter, correct?

Not really. Technically, yes....but it starts getting deep when talking about particular angles enhancing initial acceleration rate, etc. A prime example would be, two cars that hook equally....but two completely different AS%....one car will be quicker to the sixty. One will not waste as much energy as the other.

Your MAIN sixty improvements at this time, assuming you are not blowing the tires off, will come from testing tire pressures (sometimes more wheel speed is better), testing timing on the hit (tune), converter flash RPM, gear, etc.

It seems some people have run into this but my problem is a bit different. I put eibach adj bars on and they are real close to the bmr brackets but it all fits as long as I use the middle or bottom hole on the lca bracet. I think the car would handle better with the lca in the upper hole but the sway bar covers the top hole and there is no room for the bolt head between the bracket and the end of the sway bar. Anybody ever run into this?

Edit: I am running prokit springs. Will the top hole be better for road course handling?

Middle position will likely be the best overall. I am unclear of your situation....although I can imagine it....can you post a pic?

which hole works best on anti roll bar front or back ?

how bad is it if u did not weld the tabs where instructions called for ?

Tab location really isn't that crucial....assuming the links are adjusted properly. (minimal preload is preferred)

As for the hole that works best, the closest hole to the main bar (shorter lever arm) will ALWAYS work better on our bar, at the drag-strip.

Hole 1 is 854% more stiff than the stock style sway bar. (916 rate)
Hole 2 is 1055% more stiff than the stock style bar. (1109 rate)

Isn't it nice having companies to share all of this info? ;-)

Ok quick question:
I have your SP009 lowering springs along with LCAs & brackets, adjustable UCA & mount and double adjustable shocks.
The LCA relocation bracket has 3 holes, which one should I use for my application? I put it in the middle one, but i'm not sure if thats what I should have done?
thanks man.

Test, test, and test more. Middle should work well.

MY recommendation is:

BMR Springs
UCA in Upper Hole on BMR Upper Mount
LCA in Middle Position on BMR LCA Brackets

^ That formula is probably the best overall combination of control arm angles and the drop of BMR Springs.

great thread! Kelly has been a big help while I've tweaked my setup this year:

'05 gt, cobra jet springs (m-5300-q), strange single adj struts/shocks, 28.5" ride height at all four corners; metco UCA/UCA bracket, metco LCA's, BMR relocation brackets, pinion angle set to -2.5deg, 17" M/T et street bias ply rear tires

UCA in upper hole on UCA bracket, LCA's in uppermost hole on BMR reloc brackets:
instant center (IC) length = 45.89", IC height = 9.53", antisquat = 105.24"

s197_plot_zpse945a537.gif


302 rwhp, 3660 lbs with driver, 5spd manual, front struts full loose, rear shocks +4, rear tires 18psi
best run in above config: 12.425 @ 108.93, with 1.673 60'

moved the LCA's to the middle position on the BMR reloc brackets, changed the rear shock settings to +3 and ran a couple of 1.65x 60 foot times

launch pic another one

this last pic is one of the 1.65x 60' runs - doesn't look like much but the suspension is working. I have a bit more tweaking to do, but I hope to get down to the low 1.6's, high 1.5's in the spring :banana:

Hey Kelly I have question, Why does my car do this?

BMR ftw

Kelly recommended me changing my uca mount hole and using some relo brackets and I got my first wheelie and it was hooking. Full weight 2012 premium still have the way bar on.

Woot! I like the results that came from your car. I think the new "plan" will work even better. Like most of my customers, you are now a firm believer in LCA Relocation Brackets now; I love it! Your car moves OUT!

Recently read from another forum that poly bushings for the UCA can bind, which I would assume is bad. Wondering however how much of this is true and how much is misinformation. My car has all Whiteline poly stuff, should I worry about binding?

It is true. Poly can/will bind. It is the level at which it does it, that can be of concern. Many people don't understand what little movement there is at the middle of the axle. Ever hold a pen/pencil with your thumb and pointer finger, int he middle, and make the ends go crazy? Both ends move like crazy, yet the area where your fingers are, barely move. Crazy how that works!

670px-Do-the-Rubber-Pencil-Trick-Step-1.jpg



You are fine with what you have, just run 'em. If and when you want an awesome bearing upgrade, I am sure we will have them available. We have (2) UCA that we are testing right now.

thanks BMR tech.

No problem Larry.

do you guys have a store in FL where I can go buy some things

We have a manufacturing facility / sales office / shipping facility - all in one. Swing by sometime. :beer:


I'm excited. Hope my parts are in the mail and we should be getting it in soon.

Ah! I figured out who you are now. The parts are on the way! Or....should be there any time? Post pics of them!

I can't wait until spring to install all my suspension. Drop springs, adjustable panhard rod, lower control arms and relocation brackets, and radiator support. Awesome quality parts! Thanks Kelly

I can't wait either. I expect a phone call explaining how badass the car works. :beer:

When does the spherical bearing UCA for the 11-14 GT come out??

It is in testing now. Should be soon. We are working hard at releasing a few sweet components. Trust me, we want them available sooner than anyone!

will I need lca relocation brackets for a 1 inch drop I plan on lowering the rear only to level the car out

"Need"....not necessarily. You will want them though. I wouldn't drop my car over 3/4" and not use them, they are my favorite part we manufacture. :rockon:

kelly for a DD that has not seen the track yet, but may, are adjustable LCA necessary

No. I recommend seeing what your thrust angle is, before purchasing LCA. If it is outside of the range of -.2 to .2....I highly suggest grabbing them.

So I am waiting to install a DSS carbon fiber driveshaft soon, hopefully next week...

How important is a driveshaft safety loop and do you guys offer one that will clear headers?

I have ARH longtubes and I've heard that yours doesn't fit.

Also, how does it affect my ground clearance, as I am installing eibach pro street coilovers at the same time.

Unfortunately, the BMR loop does not agree with the location that ARH chooses to place their 02 sensors. I have asked them to move the bungs, but they said it is not as easy as it sounds. I have heard they may just offer their own loop? The only way the BMR loop works with the ARH's...to my knowledge, is, if you flip the ARH X-Pipe around. I know people do it.

Kelly i posted earlier today about my roush uca that i installed on my stock ride height "13" in the fall then lowered the car 1" couple months later so now i need to loosen the bushing and retorque. Question is the suspension needs to be loaded when i do this can i just jack it up by the rear axel or do i need to get the front up too and have car level. The directions say just the forward bushing roush techs say its too hard to get to so just do the rear should i just try to do both. I bought your poly poly adj. panhard bar when i did the springs and shocks lca will be this spring whats your recommendation.i like the handling part more than 1/4 mile poly poly or poly rod

The UCA bolts need to be loosened and retightened with the car on it's wheels, as level as possible. Drive-on lift is the best and easiest way. You can also make some stacked wood/blocks and put the car on them, thats how I do it, when I don't use the lift here at the shop.

Thanks for the info, I was extremely interested in the monster spherical bearing arm you were coming out with but a good deal came along. I had also read on BMO that replacing the pumpkin's bearing with a spherical like what Steeda sells is a good combo with a poly arm, any thoughts on this?

The Steeda diff bearing, paired with our massive poly UCA (UTCA032) is actually one of my favorite UCA combinations, for all around use. That said, the bearing in the diff, can and will cause havoc to a poly UCA bushing.

Can't seem to get a consistent answer on this..

I've heard from some people that the GT500 strut mounts will lower my car .5"

Others have said that is wrong, it's actually the 2005-10 struts that will lower the car .5" compared to the 2011+ struts

Which is true? (If any)

I already have GT500 strut mounts sitting in the garage, and I had planned to buy the 2005-10 Strange 10 way adjustable struts. But if they will lower the car even more I'll have to look at something else
.

Never heard of GT500 mounts dropping the car. I guess I could measure some, I have them here.

The only thing I have seen consistently drop the front of an S197, are the Koni struts. Not sure if it is in their design, or just ironic. IMO, a Koni strut will cause about .250 to .500" drop, additionally.

Strange makes a 2011+ Specific Strut, so I have heard. I like the GT500/Strange combo myself.....but, if you are worried about ride-height issues...it would be safe to just get 2011+ Specific stuff.

@pickles I think the additional .5" that you have heard about is from 05-10 koni strt struts. There was a thread about it not too long ago

I tend to agree.

Kelly

Would like more traction for my daily driven paxton mt82 car. Right now it has stock suspension except for adjustable lca's. I am currently running 275/40r18's on 18x10 rims. I have to run street tires because of the mileage I drive. Where should I start?

If it is stock ride-height, and you don't plan on lowering it, you will want to grab the UCA and UCA Mount....and install the UCA in the lowest position. You will enjoy it, I promise. :burnout:

Sorry if I missed this in a similar post but currently my suspension is the stock GT track pack. I have Eibach Pro springs. Won't be changing shocks & struts anytime soon.
I want the best set up for the street with minimal impact on ride quality. Obviously I want to improve traction and improve handling or at least not loose any. Which LCA/UCA combo is best? Also which relo brackets are needed? Also with the track pack do I need panhard relo?

No need for Panhard relo.

You want these:

TCA019
CAB005
UTCA032
UCM002
PHR006

That will do wonders, both in results and the feeling you get when pushing the car hard.

Watt's link or PHR relocation? I back road much more often than I will ever track, and I'd like to eliminate rearend skip as much as possible when cornering over bumpy surfaces.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer these questions.

You are quite welcome.

As for the "skip" - a Watts Link is ultimately the best way around it...if just comparing the PHR to the Watts. That is why we are working on a Watts to hopefully release for 2014.

You can also use softer compound tires, some adjustable struts/shocks and a slightly stiffer rear spring to help alleviate it, but it may not work 100%.

Kelly need some help.

I am installing your upper adjustable arm and mount in my garage and my garage floor is sloped. How do I work around that?

And I don't have anywhere else to do it. Driveway has a much bigger slope
.

You can set your pinion angle on a slope....and it should "work"....just ensure the tires are loaded up into the car. If you cannot do that, you need to set the pinion angle on a drive-on lift.

1.41 60ft leaving easy. BMR anti-roll bar and BMR lowers.

:rockon: Veddy Nice.

I have a 2013 Laguna Seca lowered on Steeda springs. I am looking to upgrade the shocks/struts. The OEM (Tokico D-Spec I think) are ok but I am looking for something that is stiffer on the highest setting. I usually drive around on 2-3. What would be an upgrade and why?

Koni Yellows is your answer.

Why? Because they are designed for people like you. They have aggressive compression, and "can" be very aggressive on Rebound, when adjusting. The Koni Yellows are my favorite strut/shock combo for someone looking for more stiffness and increased handling, without going coilovers.

Kelly, I don't want to hear "hopefully" lol. As per our discussion a few weeks ago, I'm eagerly awaiting this and then a torque arm from you guys so that I can have almost all BMR suspension components, both front and rear (still probably going for the Cortex coil overs and hopefully that's it from them since BMR will have the rest...eventually...hopefully, lol).

Bill (from Wildwood)

I just got out of a meeting about it. We are working on finalizing our new F/R Sway Bars.....the new UTCA033 Bearing UCA....the new Rod-End UCA....and 6 different sets of S197 Springs (Performance, Drag, Handling - GT500 and GT)

Our R&D Engineer (founder of BMR) is going to be working heavily on the Watts within the next few weeks. It is much more complicated from start to finish, for a system like the Watts Link....AND we have 3 different designs that we still have to eliminate down to (1). It's coming!

What sort of price range and release date are you shooting for with the watt's link? Torque arm would be very nice too.

I am really hoping for mid-year release....and we are going to try to keep it in the $800 range, or less. It depends on how fancy we get with the components. The most cost effective way, is for the system to be primarily composed of BMR Welded Steel components. The "Billet" stuff really starts jacking the price up. As of right now, the only "Billet" piece is our center pivot / propeller:

20131223_161021.jpg


Kelly, I have a question for you, unless it's already been asked.

As far as a panhard brace goes, what is their intended use in the suspension, and are there really any major benefits to upgrading the stock brace to the brace BMR offers?

A panhard brace is designed by OEM / Engineers to structurally support the Panhard Mounting bracket / system.

Over time, on a panhard bar suspension, the panhard bar mounting bracket tends to get fatigued. When this point is fatigued, it wants to distort....and when it distorts, the factory POS support brace allows it to do-so, to a certain "degree".

We have been building parts for panhard bar suspensions longer than any of our S197 competitors....so this is of course why we came to the market with that piece before anyone else. We see it everyday, a customer with a 1982 Camaro that has a panhard bar mount that is all out of whack.

Great question! I am surprised more people do not ask me this. :beer:

Awesome, I prefer the diff mounted option, don't let Steeda know your going that route or they make call you guys Company Y and write an article about you.

I'm not worried about it. We share mutual respect for each other (BMR/Steeda). I even recommend a few of their components, when ours won't cut it...or we do not offer it. It's natural for Company Y to think their parts are better than Company X.

It will more than likely be diff mounted, so no worries. :beer:

Awesome! I figured it was acting as a truss (in sorts) to help keep everything where it's supposed to be. And I can definitely see why it would allow for a decent amount of deflection after the initial "out of plumb" is caused by fatigue.

I shall add this part to my ever growing list
.

Gotta love growing lists!

@ BMR TECH

I have the FR handing package with the adjustable Tokiko struts and shocks on P springs, i already have your lower control arm relo brackets, and ford racing lower control arms, but havent done anything with the Upper control arm and bracket just yet. I daily drive the car and occasionally take it down the strip, hopefully will be running a sticky tire eventually and hoping for some decent times. The P springs lowered the car about an inch but i worry about the pinion angle being off and doing damage, im assuming an adjustable UCA would correct the issue. Having said all that is there an UCA you recommend?

Part 2 of my question is about the Tokiko shocks and struts, they are adjustable, would you recommend a certain setting or at least a general idea of what would work best? (ex: stiffer in the rear softer in the front?)

Thanks in advance

You want the UTCA032 UCA....paired with the UCM002 Upper Mount....and you want to install the UCA into the upper-most hole on the UCA Mount.

I like to recommend starting with the settings on the struts and shocks softer, and neutral.....THEN adjust based on what the car is doing, or what it "wants" to do when launching, or cornering.

If I had to guess, you will have the best luck with the rears at 3/4 stiff and the fronts 3/4 to full loose. ;-)

Ok mr. BMR Tech i need some advise. i am shooting for a 11sec pass on street tires. and getting close.
best so far is a 12.09 but it has yet to be repated, i get consisten 12.2xx passes.
my mods were lowering springs not sure brand as i bought it used, they are blue is all i know. and the lca's are solid aftk pieces with poly bushings. i have the bmr adj phb also.
I just installed lca adj brackets with arm in lowest hole, hoping for my 11.999! BUT
I did get a more solid launch actually bogged it more so i adjusted tire psi and get a better hit just a slight spin and did better my time by 5 hundreths.
So next???? uca going on this weekend.??? and what do i do next? front or rear shocks??

hoodley, I am surprised the lowest hole in the LCA Brackets are working for you, on street tires. You must really be utilizing your clutch? Which is awesome, but, if you are good with your clutch...the middle position will probably get you a better ET.

Based on what you wrote, I would recommend the UCA/Mount with the UCA in the Upper position. I also recommend removing the front sway-bar, and using a single adjustable front strut like the Strange S6009LM. Id' set them to 3/4 to full loose.

After those mods, I'd grab a set of Viking Double Adjustable Shocks, B226. These will help tremendously with maintaining traction on a stiff compound tire.

After those, and meeting your goal, come back in here to take it a step further. ;)

the middle hole? thats interesting, i guess i was thinking about it wrong. Oh and the sway bar is gone, forgot to add that. so i will be trying middle hole, it feel like it grabs good then the hard tire unloads it so i was curious about frt or rear shocks first. Thanks alot for info, will check back sunday and let u know how middle hole does!
THANKS FOR ADVISE THAT IS AWESOME YOU ARE WILLING TO HELP FOR FREE!!

Well, I do actually have people that pay me to get their cars to hook - but that's another story in itself. It usually requires me being there physically. ;)

Just doing my job.

Yes, the lowest hole will cause a great initial bite, then unload. Having the LCA that steep (angle) will lift the car, then when the car comes down - the force on the tires is removed = tire spin.

While we are on that topic. Check this picture out:
View attachment 17848


Then....imagine standing on a scale, body straight. Your feet are the tires, your legs are the suspension, and body...well, the body of the car.

If you are standing straight and squat very quickly, what happens to the reading on the scale?

Now...being squatted.....shoot up to the straight up position, quickly. What happens to the reading on the scale?

Duh duh, chhhh

wondering if wheel hop normal on wet roads with bmr rear upper mount and upper arm, bmr lowers, relo bracke and adj panhard?

when wet and taking off i still get some wheel hop. is that normal?

I would not say normal, but, it does not surprise me. In order to eliminate wheel hop/tire shake 100% - you have to maximize both traction AND axle stability.

You can maximize axle stability all you want, but you cannot really maximize traction on a wet road.

So yes, wheel-hop on wet/damp surfaces is not abnormal, regardless of your suspension and chassis modifications.

My setup doesn't give me confidence going around turns. The rear end is still squirrelly and bounces around...

I've got a '12 gt track pack
Koni yellows (full soft), bmr springs and pan hard bar.

I still have various clunks and squeeks going on... But if you've got any advice...
I would say it is now worse than stock. The quality

My first advice would be to try and adjust the struts and shocks, that is what they are made for. For the Koni Yellow / BMR Spring combo....I like the fronts at about 3/4 and the rears at 1/2.

thoughts on hotchkis sway bars part #22102?
2011 GT auto, with BMR springs, steeda pro action shocks, BMR LCAs + relocation brackets, BMR UCA + mount, Steeda panhard bar + brace
255/45 continental extremecontact dw on stock wheels. occasionally taken into the canyons out here in southern california

Our bars are in testing now, so I would hold out. They share some similarities to the Hotchkis pieces, too.

To answer - I think they are great pieces.

Kelly. I have koni. Str.ts but am mostly a drag and street driver. I am thinking of going viking shocks in the rear for adjustability at the strip. Can i run them fine with koni str.ts in the front? Other question, am I really losing alot of 60ft with the str.ts? Not trying to break records, just would like an opinion. Would like to 1.6. Is that possible with the str.ts? Thanks

Koni's of any sort, are one of the last things I recommend for cutting a good sixty foot time. Is it possible, yes.

The best bang for the buck is Strange Singles up front, and Viking Doubles out back. I have been pushing this combo for quite a while, and you can tell how well it works - as its a daily mentioned combo now. lol

When do expect the sway bars to be available? And will they clear your relocation brackets

The front should be about 2 months. The rear about 4-5.

Everything should clear fine. :beer:

are the strange rear adjustables not as good as the vikikgs? obviously not or you would say so, but why? there is a huge gap in price i think

I wouldn't say "better"....but, a double adjustble rear shock is a good idea when looking to dial in your suspension on an S197.

If the Strange were double adjustable, they would be the same price or more expensive....so you really cannot compare the $89 Strange S6008 to the $175 Viking DA.

I recently sold my ’03 Mach 1 and hopped into a ’13 Premium GT Track Pack. What a machine. I want to do suspension/drivetrain mods FIRST, unlike I did with my Mach. I’ve got about a 6-700 dollar budget. The car already has lowering springs. It will be driven in nice weather only, and see the drag strip a handful of times during the summer. My question to you is, where to start? Am I okay with staying with the stock Track Pack shocks and struts? I know I need an adjustable PHB etc. I just need to know where to start and some pointers. This car wheel hops BAD with this weak rear suspension. It has 9,200 miles on it as well. Thanks!

Brian! I was just getting around to catching up on emails - I have been down with the Flu for almost two weeks, unfortunately. Anyhow, this would be a good place to answer for you.

You will want an adjustable panhard bar. Our PHR006 is our #1 selling component here at BMR, and likely the most commonly found panhard bar under S197's on the road today.

Lower Control Arms will tighten up the rear axle, and help with wheel hop and increased traction. The SOTP feeling with these is incredible, too. For these, I recommend our TCA019.

Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets - simply put, these are THE best bang for the buck when looking to increase the performance of your S197's suspension. These pieces will help correct the LCA angle, after you lower the car. These brackets help with wheel-hop, and of course, promote traction like you would not believe. The part # on these is CAB005.

Upper Control Arm; extremely important piece to the puzzle, as well. You can typically do well by just upgrading the LCA and the LCA Brackets....but words cannot describe the force seen by the UCA within the S197 3-link suspnension. Not only does this piece see a lot of pulling force, but it is also crucial to adjust your drivetrain/line working angles after lowering your car.
The piece I recommend for this is the UTCA032. This is the same piece that can be found on a large # of the record setting/holding 2001+ Mustangs....and is also the piece that comes standard on the Shelby S1000. :beer:

Here is a quick before and after:

2013 Mustang GT M6 Brembo Package Wheel Hop 1 - YouTube

2013 Mustang GT Brembo Package Wheel Hop Cured 1 - YouTube

Of course, when you get the UCA.....you also want to get the UCA Mount, which is the UCM002.

These pieces will be your best starting point. They will offer for adjustment, increase the rigidity/stabilization of the rear axle assembly, help control wheel-hop, and help promote/maximize traction.

Hope that helps!

Thanks a bunch. Didn't know if my email went through. Checking into the LCA you suggested.. aren't poly/poly LCA's a huge no no? Something about increased strain on the rear axle torque box? I read you need a spherical bearing on the axle side, for 99-04's. (Again, that's all I know.) Thanks!

Poly/Poly are not huge no-no's on an S197 3-link style suspension.

On the '79-'04 Triangulated 4-Link, I never recommend a full Poly Combo, though. That system is "bind city"...and really needs bearings on the axle side of the control arms.

This S197 is completely different, in a good way. The Torque boxes are fine, and poly is fine.

switching from sportlines to sp009's and dspecs to viking d/a's (keeping dspecs out front) , other suspension parts are bmr lcarb(welded in), upr lca's hiem joint on both ends, spherical diff bushing, poly uca with mount that keeps it at stock location. looking for a baseline for the vikings and which hole on lcarbs

For the track (strip)? If so:

Middle Hole LCA Brackets
Start with 6C / 3R on the Vikings
Start with 75% full loose on the D-Spec Fronts

Let me know how it does.

Nice to meet you today Kelly, already have an appointment with racing integration to put all those new shinny goodies in!

Awesome! Let me know how it goes! Collin does great work.

Hey guys is it true that if we spin our upper strut mounts it will fix our negative camber?On my 2011 I had full coilovers.But on the 13 Im going with 1.5" drop for now.

You will gain a little bit of positive camber by flipping the USM 180 degrees.

When you rotate the tops, it will move the upper portion of the strut "outward" about 1/4". This will definitely help fight against negative camber, but, just a little.

Installed eibach shocks/pro springs and my alignment is within spec but a bit off in the front (-.9 passenger side, -1.4 driver side). How do I get the driver side alignment to match the passenger side? It doesn't look like there is any camber adjustment but I was wondering if I loosened the spindle nuts and kind of banged it out a bit more it would shore up some of that negative camber. Thoughts?

In your case, I would loosen the driver side lower strut/spindle pieces....pull the TOP of the spindle OUT as much as possible....and have a second hand tighten the hardware down. It should get you to -1.1 range; possibly even within the same range as the pass side.

Just to be sure, maybe I have this backwards, do you want the strut leaning to the back or the front for the caster setting? Maybe I've just mixed up positive and negative caster over the years and I'm actually trying to say the same thing as you guys. Thank you both for your recommendations!

Positive Caster is when the top of the strut is closer to the rear of the car / bottom of strut is closer to front of car. (leaning back)

Negative is when the bottom of the strut is closer to the rear of the car.. (leaning forward)

Got a quick question.

Having read many, many good reviews, as well as your advice in many threads, I recently ordered and installed:
CAB005
TCA019
PHR006
UCM002
UTCA03

This is all on my '13 GT, which sits on Koni Yellows and Steeda Ultralites.

I've seen you mention in this thread that the stock bushing in the diff will play havoc with the poly bushing in the UCA. Is this something I need to address ASAP? Or is it only for those cars that see lots of track time?

You've recommended this combo many times, so I didn't order the diff bushing thinking it wouldn't be totally necessary (and, admittedly, because it looks like a total PITA to get out).

The OEM bushing is okay on most people's combos, for a while. The more rigid UCA system will play havoc - but, we still have the OEM on ours. We don't change parts like those until they fail - as it helps me provide the best knowledge to my customers. This is why we are still rocking the stock DS.....because we have not broken it yet.

The MOST IMPORTANT thing, pertaining to the OEM Diff Bushing that people should know/remember is; you NEED to ensure you Torque the differential side of the UCA down when the car is at it's ride height, sitting on the tires. I'd bet that 75% of the people who destroy their OEM diff bushing, are lowered and never took the preload out of the bushing.

Kelly, I have a 2013 Gt that is lowered 1.5 inches front and back. I am still on stock dampers and struts. I have the BMR adjustable panhard bar intstalled. I have 3.73 gears and I am on stock 19" tires and wheels. My question is I tried to measure pinion angle and I believe it came to zero. So I ordered BMR lowering brackets and BMR LCA with poly bushings. I am going to set the brackets in the middle hole to try to get LCA back to level. I am wondering...once I lower the LCA shouldn't it in theory lengthen the geometry of the rear suspention giving back my stock pinion angle.I'm thinking by about 1/8 to 1/4 in forward...am I correct...Thanks Lyle...I don't plan on taking car to track,just spirited driving !!

We do compensate for the arc, in our positions on the LCA Brackets.....BUT, that only "works" if the brackets are EXACTLY where they should be positioned. It is difficult to ensure each and every installation is exact....it is tough when dealing with increasing the length of the lever.

Your best choice would be to just install the components, and see where your at afterwards. Let me know.

maybe Mr. bmr can help me
uca in top hole. -2 pinion angle. lowers in middle hole. launch rpm 5000. 26x8.5 slicks. wicked hard initial hit and bogs! all the way down to about 2000rpm. then it has to pull itself back up. only a 1.80 60ft???

Too much hook!!!! Anytime you find this happening, you should thank me. It's simple from here on out. Your goal is to either launch higher, or promote some wheel speed. Either will improve your 60' drastically.

Try 5500....6000...6500....etc.

If you are scared of RPM, raise the LCA up a hole and raise the tire pressure 1-2 psi.

Let us know!

Odd behavior question. When flooring it in first / second, the rear end of the car has always gently swung out. Generally it would swing out to the left in first, then a little to the right when I caught second (Note this is with Advance Track enabled). I could always just "drive through it".

After adding BMR LCA relocation brackets (using top hole) and J&M tubular LCA's, the rear seems to break loose much more violently. There's a ton more lateral movement to the point of almost losing control. The rear really starts coming around. Any idea why the behavior has changed?

Other car details: 13' GT Track pack 6sp, 3.73's, Hotchkis springs, staggered wheels / tires. 255 P-Zeros front, 275 rear
.

It sounds like you may simply be overpowering the P-Zeros.

Try to lower the tire pressure a bit, and see if it helps. Occasionally, this can happen, where the increased anti-squat can cause the tires to spin even more. A softer compound tire, or stickier pavement is usually the fix. Our upper control arm Mount, in the upper position, should help too.

Hey Kelly.. I talked to you a few weeks back on the phone. I ended up going with Eibach sportlines springs, BMR relo, BMR adj lca, BMR adj panhard bar with new wheels and tires ( nitto nt05)
I now have a noticeable noise from the back of the car that can best be descibed as friction. It is there clutch in or out and is directly related to speed. The car has been checked for any interference with wheels and it's aligned perfect too. The tech that did my car said the new lca mounts transfer more noise and that is probably it. What do you think?

You are experiencing the result from increased rigidity from the rear suspension pieces.

The noise you are hearing, specifically, is likely a combination of increased road noise and drivetrain operating frequencies.

There is no reason to be alarmed, unless you are experiencing noises that sound like the car is falling apart, IE; massive and loud clanking / clunking.

It is 100% normal to experience what you are.

What advantages do adjustable LCA's have over the boxed, and tubed versions? Also a boxed vs tube breakdown? For ease of explanation lets say the car is lowered and using your LCA relocation brackets.

Also are all 3 of the springs rates now available that you mentioned earlier? If so what's the drop difference between the sets.

Thanks
!

Box VS Round Tube:

I don't really want to get into the super specifics here, but I will shed some light on why we like the box tube material.

Mass for Mass, Weight for weight, technically, the round tubing is stronger. That said, with the S197 LCA....the boxed tubing we use, is definitely stronger on paper than round tubing (or, most round tube offerings)

The primary reason that we use the box, is to ensure we can get a clean full "wrap" around the bushing end.

The weakest way to design a load bearing bushing end/pivot point, is to join the bushing end with a small tube. This is the reason our adjustable UCA have those massive adjusters, instead of welding a threaded rod to the bushing end.

Adjustable VS Non-Adjustable:

Most of my customers do just fine with non-adjustable LCA. Adjustment comes in handy when you want to "perfect" your rear suspension geometry, in terms of alignment. For example, if you install non-adjustable LCA, and have a thrust angle of say .10 to .25 (somewhat common)....it is within "spec", which is -.50 to .50.....but it is not perfect. You CAN dial it in to zero, but it takes some serious manipulation of the rear suspension. Much harder than just adjusting a LCA to hit the spec.

Often times, you can get your thrust angle zeroed out with the panhard bar adjustment, BUT....I'd rather the axle be centered within the rear chassis, THEN adjust thrust angle via LCA. Now, too much of anything is bad...so if you have to adjust one LCA more than 1/4" or so different than the other, then you will want to start looking into modifying or manipulating the mounting points of the LCA, etc.

The other benefit to adjustable LCA is the ability to alter wheel base. In handling applications, slightly short wheel bases can be beneficial for throwing the car around aggressively, longer wheel bases can be optimal when road coursing, with not much aggressive maneuvers. Lengthening the wheelbase increases stability, per say.

In drag racing, longer wheel base is always better.

Other adjustments can be beneifical, when speaking of wheel base. For example, if someone likes to run SERIOUS anti-squat....OR, serious squatting.....the wheels/tires actually come forward on launch, which will enable the tire to hit the fenders. I see this A LOT. The rear axle is on an arc. The more suspension travel, the more the wheels move forward.

The best LCA we offer, happen to be the adjustable. Simply because bearings work better for EVERYTHING (except NVH) than poly. So, in other words, the best performing LCA we offer is a fully adjustable set with bearing ends. Not necessarily the best because adjustable, but, the best; because racecar.

Lowered Car with LCA / LCA Relocation Brackets:


I have definitely touched on this earlier, but my recommendation for a lowered car is to get our UCA Mount that has an upper hole specifically engineered for a lowered S197 that uses LCA Brackets. Install the LCA Brackets into the Middle hole to start, then figure out which of the 3 positions works best. Most times, it is the middle.

In terms of adjustability for these LCA, on a lowered car and relocation brackets.....it isn't necessarily needed, but the more adjustability the better. I cannot promise each and every customer, out of tens of thousands, that their "specs" will be dead nuts OEM with these modifications, so adjustable LCA are definitely worth having. 9 times out of 10, I just recommend our good ole non-adjustable poly bushed LCA though.

Future BMR Spring options / availability:

They are not available yet. Springs are somewhat complicated, from start to finish in terms of releasing them to the public. You will definitely know when they are available.

The drops are all going to be in the 1.5" range. This is the height that we feel the S197 should be at, and is also the height we engineer our components around. Drag, looks, handling.....we prefer the 27.25" to 28" fender heights for all of it. Of course, results may vary based on tire heights, etc.

So I picked up my 2014 GT Track Package car while home on leave and instantly fell in love. What I didn't love was the crazy amount of wheel hop experienced the first time I took it to the track. I am back overseas and researching options to eliminate the "hop".

I want to keep as much of the factory geometry in place with the rear suspension as possible at the same time eliminating the wheel hop. The consensus seems to point at the stock UCA (upper control arm) as the culprit. Having learned that, and my desire to keep factory like geometry/articulation of the rear suspension points me to the Roush wheel hop reduction kit. Would everyone here agree on this decision?

Now lets talk a little more about the Roush product. All the threads on this product say it is to be used with lowering springs because I guess they changed the IC (instant center) and anti-squat geometries (keeping the tires forced down to the pavement) to better benefit lowered cars. My question is will the Brembo50.com 55D springs be enough drop (~1/2") to keep the pinion angle/IC in it's proper specs/articulation like factory?

Yes, I know there are adjustable UCA's out there, but they all have urethane or solid bushings which are a no-go on anything that's going to experience axial and radial forces in my book. I would hate to ruin proper factory suspension articulation with urethane bushings in the wrong place. Is my logic correct here or am I over thinking this?

Any insight on the Roush UCA and 55D springs would be highly appreciated. Oh, and the car's usage would be mainly street, then HPDE track events, and then dragstrip in that order. Thanks

The Roush UCA is pretty good, for what it's intended purpose is.

Personally, I am very picky about what combinations that I feel comfortable recommending it for.

For example, I don't like the lowered UCA mounting point of the Roush UCA on a lowered car. The lowering of the car already does this....so I like LCA Brackets for IC Change.

Another thing I do not like, is the fact that they use the 8.5" Length UCA instead of the lengthened 11+ UCA, which is 9.5". An inch really does make a big difference, despite what we all try to convince ourselves of.... lol

The longer UCA leads to increased axle stability in every condition. Handling, braking, acceleration, decel, etc.

That being said, MY recommendation when a customer calls with a similar request, is to do the BMR UCA Mount in the lower position.....and a set of LCA.

You keep the OEM NVH level of the UCA, while using a lowered mounting point on the BMR Mount which helps with traction and wheel hop.

Is the OEM UCA better than the Roush, or the BMR? Meh - not really. Can it work well? For many, yes.

My vote is:

UCM002 ($149.95)
TCA032 ($89.95)

Finally - wheel hop is tricky. Sometimes a complete rear suspension will not cure it 100%....and sometimes only (1) upgrade like LCA, will cure it. I cannot promise, ever, that XXXX will 100% rid of wheel hop, unfortunately.

Good luck!

What do you recommend to use for you adjustable upper control arm for the jam nuts and adjuster?
I had a hard time fitting a adjustable wrench in there.
I think the size is 1-1/2 inch?
What do you use?
I consider cutting the handle of a adjustable wrench?

I use channel locks to adjust the center piece (they have a good angle to them, easiest way I have found)

When tightening, I use the combo of a Crescent wrench, and an open ended 1.5" wrench. We have a "combination" 1.5" wrench that we use, it is about 15" long.

If you cannot get to it to tighten it down, after you set the pinion angle....hand tighten the nuts, then drop the rear-end down. You can even disconnect the rear shocks, and hang it down pretty far. That will allow you to use some "ooomph"

I also highly recommend name brand blue Loc tite under the jam nuts.

Hope that helps.

All right, I've been experimenting with my setup. And I would like more input. My car is N/A, putting out around 430 whp, race weight is 3350ish. Strange single adj in front set at 3, Viking double adj in back set at 3c/5r on drivers side, 4c/5r on passenger side.
Running 27x11.5 15 QTPs at 14 psi, adj U/LCAs with spherical end joints, BMR upper/lower brackets with arms in to hole of each. CJ springs, and launching at 5500 rpm.
Elwood racing in Fayetteville 2: http://youtu.be/X0dFWCf6Dnk
qavasuze.jpg

With this setup, I've been consistent 1.6-1.65 60' and 11.5-11.58 @120. I want a better 60'.
I'm thinking about going to 2 then 1 in the front, seeing how it does. I tried it at full off and it was bouncing all the way down the track. In also going to working up on the compression and rebound in the back to see if I can get any more out of it. Thoughts?

By the looks of your pic, and the video....I would want a little more Anti-Squat. Of course, this is if the tires and track can handle it.

My suggestion is to do the following: (what I would do if I had your car)

Front struts at 2 clicks from soft
Rear Shocks at 4C/7R
UCA in Top Hole
LCA in Middle Hole
Tire PSI @ 12.5 - 14PSI cold.
Launch RPM at 5800RPM minimum.

To get past the 1.6X range in N/A 430 rwhp trim......it "usually" takes 5800+ RPM launches....and a decent amount of Anti-Squat.

One of the reasons I don't really recommend the CJ springs up front.....is because you usually have to run more Rebound stiffness than I prefer......to prevent bouncing/unloading. The BMR front spring is where "its at"

I would also like to see the car on a 28" tire.

Then we can hit that thing REALLY hard. ;)

I'll bite. I have a stock 2014 GT track pack. Looking to start the suspension build.
I will probably have some minor power bolt ons and a tune next summer, and then supercharging and aiming for just shy of 600hp.
It is primarily a year-round daily driver, but I like to hit a few HPDE events per year as well. I would also like to kill the wheel hop that I sometimes experience while accelerating quickly from a stop.
My main complaints on the track are the severe nose dive on braking and rear heave on acceleration. The car does not inspire confidence.
I would like to lower the car about an inch and firm up the ride a bit, and would like adjustable dampening.
My main concern is that I do everything right the first time so that I hopefully don't end up changing the same part multiple times.

When a customer wants what you have described, I have been very successful at fulfilling their needs with my recommendations - even though the parts that I recommend aren't all my parts (BMR)

In the near future, I will have some springs that would tickle your fancy, but at this time...here is what I recommend personally.

-FRPP P Springs
-Koni Yellows -or- Bilsteins
-GT500 Upper Strut Mounts -or- Vorshlag CC Plates if you want CC adjustment
-BMR Panhard Bar (PHR006)
-BMR Relocation Brackets (CAB005) - *Top or Middle Position
-BMR Lower Control Arms (TCA021)

Then, to top it off.....the new Mack Daddy Sway Bars we just released:
-BMR Front Bar, 5-Way/38mm (SB041)
-BMR Rear Bar, 4-way/25mm (SB042)

This package will give you what I like to call, a "soft spring / big bar" approach. It will be comfortable enough for daily driving, and will give you a grin from ear to ear on road course, AutoX - HPDE's etc.

The combination of the spring rates, and the compression valving on the Koni or Bilsteins...will definitely assist in ridding of that nasty dive.

The Sway Bars will give you the ability to tune in that additional roll stiffness/wheel rate....due to the mild rate of the P-Springs. The Springs will likely give you the look you are after, to boot.

The LCA / Relos....these will assist you in powering through the corners...and slightly aide you in turning, due to the roll steer advantage.

Say goodbye to wheel hop, and sloppy braking and cornering. Be sure to post results after you perform these mods, I love hearing about it!

Thank you for the list! You don't think an adjustable UCA is necessary?
Do you have a preference between the Konis and Bilsteins?
I am interested to hear about your new springs. I want to keep the springs relatively soft, but still just slightly stiffer than the stock brembo/track pack springs. I remember hearing that the FRPP springs are softer than the brembo ones.

I do not think an UCA is necessary, but I do recommend them. I mean, I also recommend all the other parts we make too, but I was giving you more of a "start here, to get your best bang for the buck - for what yo are looking for"

If you are going to install a 1-Piece DS - well go ahead and add the UCA and Mount to the list. If you are going to stick with your OEM DS....I'd do the UCA at a later date. Start with the goodies I listed, then work from there - IMO.

I do not believe the P Springs are softer than the Brembos 131F / 167R rates. Maybe during their progressive rate portion of the spring, but I doubt they are softer when actually being put to use.

I too am looking for a plan, as you already responded to in my thread and thanks. Ford Racing springs were on my list as I figured a progressive spring is usually the way to go on a daily driver, and they're aren't a ton of those. Thanks for your honesty and I will keep you in mind for my other suspension needs. Do you have to install the GT500 upper mounts? (Thinking my trackpack came with those)

TP did not come with the GT500 Mounts.

You don't "need" to install them, but I highly recommend it.

I will find a post I made somewhere else, and show you why I like the GT500 Mounts. Keep in mind, You need to run 05-10 Style Struts, to use GT500 Mounts.

I still do not understand why it is better to go with the 05-10 GT500 mounts vs the 11-14 mounts? Is the only reason because the GT500 mounts are cheaper than the newer style mounts? I would think that the newer style system would be better than the older system? :shrug:

GT500 mounts are $120

11+ OEM Mounts are $80.

I can't help but find it funny how people believe the "newer style must be better" - when, a 2014 GT500 comes with - you got it, GT500 Mounts. ;)

Personally, I cannot stand the 11+ GT/V6/Boss Mounts. We have had way too many issues here, with them. Not only do they have issues with falling apart, breaking, etc....but they also have issues making noise - due to their poor design. The GT500 Mounts are also easier to install (properly)

Here is a direct comparison I did. GT500 Mount is the larger one, with the thicker rubber.

20140915_100255_zpsehvgk9n1.jpg

20140915_100330_zpsvbruyyf4.jpg

20140915_100401_zps8gx9bcu1.jpg

20140915_100617_zpshbt5mdty.jpg

20140915_100650_zpsbjrevobq.jpg



One of the "issues" I have with the 11+ Mounts, is the tiny amount of material they use. You can clearly see what I am referring to above, with the picture of it on the spring It is very common to see that rubber split/crack where the coil spring leaves the mount....causing some squeaking, groaning noises.

2011-2014 GT/V6/Boss Strut on Left ----- 2005-2010 GT/V6 & 07-14 GT500 Strut on Right

20140916_112232.jpg


Hey Kelly,

I have Strange 10 way struts/shocks, along with Steeda sport springs and GT500 mounts on my 2012 V6. I was wondering, what settings should I run for everyday driving over Normal to semi-crappy roads?

If it were my car, and based on my experiences - I would run 2 click on the rear, and 5 clicks on the front. That seems to be the sweet spot for street use, with the Strange dampers and most lowering springs.

what if your at 28.75 with a 315/40/18 tire? advertised at 28, but I measured 27.25@30psi

Fender arch measurements simply give me a rough idea of what to work with. Some people say there is no way I can give recommendations based on them, but I have "worked" with pretty much every set-up, and have a good idea.

For a 28.75" fender arch - I would use the OEM LCA position, and the lower hole in our UCA Mount.

The other option would be, the upper hole in our UCA Mount, and the Top hole of our LCA Brackets. Of course, you can go more aggressive....but you will need to test to see what positions work best.

Just to confirm, using the GT500 mounts requires the previous gen shocks/struts ? For some reason Ford lists theirs as 05-14, not that I'm buying those. I assume this mount requires a longer shock shaft. (from what I can see in the pics)

GT500 Mounts require a 2005-2010 Strut, or a GT500 Strut.

Kelly,

Are there pros and cons to weld in sub frame connectors (for example BMR's) and bolt in ones (say hotchkis)? Do they give the same performance/stiffness?

When comparing a bolt-on SFC to a weld-in, the Weld-In "pros" far outweigh the "pros" of the bolt-in pieces.

The only con for a weld-in, is, you have to weld it. A subframe connector works best welded in, as there is no slipping or deflection of the mounting points. Personally, I would rather not use a SFC than to use a Bolt-On SFC.

OK ... Here's a thought i've just had regarding strut tower bars.

I've recently started doing more road course driving, and have been doing a lot of research regarding vehicle dynamics with sway bars, staggered vs square tires, etc. This brings me to an interesting thought i just had regarding the strut tower brace. I think a lot of people, as well as myself, think this piece is magic. You just put it on and the car corners better because it' stiffer.

How does it achieve that stiffness though? Lets assume you are on a right handed sweeper, which puts most of the vehicles load on the front driver's side tire. When adding a strut tower bar, you'd essentially be placing some of that load back on the passenger side front, but how? Its not like that wheel just magically goes back down and makes more contact, it has to be braced against something: The opposing shock tower. This basically means the cost of getting the passenger front tire down is MORE load on the drivers side front tire ... Almost seems like in certain circumstances this could in fact be degrading to a vehicles performance instead of an upgrade? However, i realize this is a VERY grey area..
.

Braces all work the same way, they spread the load. This will make the chassis stiffer and allow the suspension to do its job.

I honestly don't give much praise to STB and their improvement on a handling application.

I like them because they help keep the front square. You would not believe how minor of an incident, will cause the towers to shift. I've had plenty of customers over the years, try to install our STB - and them not fit. The reason was, minor fender benders or hitting curbs. Pretty telling IMO. I once thought a STB was a waste of time, but after doing what I do for so long...I am a fan of them.

ok here is a different one for you, HARD TIRE RACING. sumitumo 275/40/18.
I am set up upper in top hole, lowers in middle hole. rear strange single adjustable tightened 8 clicks. mainly to keep it going straight on the shift.
If not it goes into seconds and blows the tires off.
I have a consistent 1.90 60ft. with the occasional 1.89-87, of course the track is well prepped for the hard tire race.
only power mods are cai,x pipe and tune. Is there any more left in suspension?
I can mat the gas just over 1100, go off converter, or idle, and it dont spin a lick! wont hook in the street though...

Hard tire racing - you want a little wheel speed. You do not want to blow the tires off, but you DO want some spin. The reason is because, making them dead hook requires lack of RPM / Hit. If you can get them to spin just a little, the car will ET and MPH better.

I would either increase the anti squat until you over power the tires slightly....or raise up tire pressure - or both, to induce a little wheel speed.

Took your advice and got consistent 1.65 60'. What would be the next step to try and bring that down?

Consistent 1.65 by "dead hooking" or? Have a video? A 1.65 can be done by hooking hard, or spinning the tires. If you are spinning the tires, then we need to adjust the suspension a little.....if you are dead hooking, I would raise the launch RPM up until you don't hook first, then come down a little......OR I would try and induce some wheel speed by either tire pressure adjustments, or suspension tweaks.

What is it doing on the hit?

Question on the BMR front control arms - I'm looking forward to the corrected geometry with the long ball stud and anti dive built in but I'm not sure if I should go with the adjustable or fixed version. Can you explain the differences? I will be driving the car once per week and tracking it every few weeks on take off 275/35/18 sized slicks.

Car is lowered on Steeda springs now, coilovers going in this November.

Any other info about the front end geometry appreciated!

For a handling application, I really don't like a Poly Non-Adjustable FLCA. I have had a few guys bust those poly (front) bushings up...and it just does no good.

I ALWAYS recommend an adjustable LCA for handling, simply because they perform better and they are more durable for road course abuse.

As for the geometry, our A-Arms are not designed to be used with anti-dive (increased) - I personally never recommend raising that back mount with our arms, simply because of the increase twisting force placed on the assembly. I have guys doing it, but I am leary of that. I usually recommend getting the components in bare, and spray painting them silver, to easily spot any damage if it presents it's ugly head.

I like the tall ball joint, for roll center improvement. That said, they can cause issues. The wheel moves slightly inboard, which can cause clearance issues with large brake kits (rotors)....and they can also cause some headache with alignment (tires will be toes out upon initial install)

As for the Poly VS Bearing - the NVH will definitely be a little more noticeable with the bearing. If you are worried at all, about NVH, then an aftermarket FLCA / or the aftermarket bushing&joint kits may not be your best route.

Can valvoline Multi-purpose grease made for suspension be used on the lca and panhard bars?

I am not familiar with the Valvoline. I have tested most lubricants, but I have not tested the Valvoline Multi-Purpose.

You just want to ensure the grease you use, is full synthetic.

My personal favorite is the AMsoil Polymeric. This stuff resists wash out, and push out, better than anything I have ever tested.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...-and-equipment-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA

if i have adjustable UCA and LCA and PHB which should i adjust first? Also, at what point when lowering a suspension are LCA relocation brackets necessary?

Typically, RLCA Relocation Brackets will benefit any combo that has been lowered < .750"

If your entire suspension is adjustable, then I recommend:

-Set panhard bar
-Set LCA for thrust angle / wheelbase (OEM is 107.1" wheelbase...I like 107.25" if you can get by with it)
-Set pinion angle

After that is completed, go back and check the PHR adjustment to ensure the axle/body relation is within 1/8".

BMR Tech-

My car is lowered on Steeda Sports. Suspension is otherwise 100% stock. Car seems to hook fine (305 NT05Rs) but ill be at the drag strip in 2 weeks on the 15th and worried with 600 HP the LCAs at the very least are deflecting badly under hard acceleration and id rather not have my drivers side tire and wheel end up just behind the drivers seat. :)

Before I hit the track I will weld my axle tubes. I'd also like to buy some relo brackets, some LCAs and an adjustable PH bar. Does BMR offer a forum discount of some sort?

thanks!

LCA and LCA Brackets should make a huge difference. We had amazing results when we tested our car on 150 shot, stock LCA position VS BMR Relocation Positions. It was drastic.

As for a code, we do have a code for our site which is KA7...or you can also check out our eBay store:

http://stores.ebay.com/BMR-Suspensi...14694018&_sid=810196228&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Good luck and Happy Modding!

Kelly, was looking on your site reading up on the relo swaybar bracket kit for the 11-14 GT's. Just ordered a set of 15x10 rear drag wheels and was gonna order this kit but see it has some notes about fitment with the rear control arm relocation brackets which I'm running since I'm lowered, are there other modifications required to run the swaybar relo and lca relo brackets together? Thanks

We designed, the LCA Brackets and the Sway Bar Relocation brackets to work together, with OEM Rear Sway Bars.

The clearance is very tight sometimes, and I cannot promise it will work. Thousands have done it, though.

If you do have clearance issues, there are ways to solve it - it just takes a phone call to me.

Good luck!

Timeline for BMR wattslink?

Or can you recommend a watts-link with BMR support mods for a 410-420rwhp '11 GT manual for road course use (Button Willow, Chuckwalla, Mazda Laguna).

Are the spherical ends on a Watts as uncomfortable and clunky as it sounds?

Thanks

About 1.5 months.

The spherical bearings can be loud and clunky. There are ways around that though, like the Seals It rod-end boots and an O-Ring on the Inner Pivot Mount bearing sides.

BMRTech?? ive got a 20111 gt basic hp bolt ons should be close to 400 hp,
suspension:
BMR SP009 springs
BMR LCA and relocation brackets in middle hole
BMR UCA non adjustable with BMR mount top hole
BMR adjustable pan hard bar
M/T street comp 305/35/20 non drag radials

should I be waiting for warmer weather or is my set up missing something. with all of the above I was hoping to hook better I should say I was expecting to hook Good. What PSI should I be running in these tires. Thanks

It is difficult to get a car with 400+HP to hook "good" on regular street radial tires. Especially from low speeds.

In your current situation, it may take clean roads....and warm temps, with warm tires, and good driving to make the car hook good.

My recommendation is to get a softer compound rear tire on the car, so you can take full advantage of the suspension components you are using.

Hey BMR Tech can you suggest a course of action? My GT500 hooks hard for about 20’ and then unloads and spins.

Here’s the car info: 2008 GT500 with 500 RWHP. Eibach pro kit lower springs and dampers. Steeda tubular rear lower control arms, Steeda adjustable rear upper control arm (not sure which one) set to -1.5 degree driveshaft angle. Aluminum one piece driveshaft. Steeda front and rear sway bars. BMR Suspension lower control arm relocation brackets with LCAs currently using the middle hole. BMR Suspension rear sway bar relocation brackets.
(The Steeda sway bar and BMR parts didn’t exactly play well together and some grinding on the LCA relo brackets for clearance was required.)

15x10 wheels with 28x11.5-15 Hoosier QTP.

I can launch as hard as 5000 RPM (or as easy as 3000 RPM) and the car hooks hard but after a few feet, maybe 20', the rear unloads and tires spin. Subjectively it feels like the rear actually bounces up, but that is hard to verify for sure. For sure it does hook and not spin immediately off the line, and then well before my nose reaches the tree I am spinning.

I’m open to anything to get the car to hook because I do plan on adding another 150HP once the traction issues are sorted out. The car does see street duty so I don’t want to ruin its road manners but obviously I’m OK with a harsh ride because it is stiff as can be now. And the car never sees really hard cornering because there are no opportunities for that here. LOL.

I’m wondering if a different LCA relocation adjustment up or down might help. Or maybe I need different shocks to help keep the rear from bouncing up after launch? Or maybe I need a different upper control arm?

BMR-SP075 (GT500 Drag Springs)
STR-S6009LM (Strange Struts)
VIK-B226 (Viking Shocks)

I would like to see the UCA and Mount you have, so I can determine what position to use for the mounting point.

Then, I will be able to recommend everything to you - like, tire PSI, UCA/LCA positions, and shocks/strut settings.

The most important thing you can do right now is to swap dampers....but I highly recommend BMRifying the components above, so we can get the car working.

what is the best grease to use on non spherical bushings that come with bmr products? the shop that installed mine uses something that keep washing out after it rains and i keep having to go back to grease it again :(

This is THE best lubrication for Poly, that I have ever used.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ent-grease-nlgi-2/?code=GPTR2CR-EA&zo=1859448

Kelly,

I have a 2014 Track Pack and want to improve the handling. The car is my DD, but plan to do several autocross events per year and maybe 1-2 HPDEs per year. I want work in stages and I'm considering getting the following pieces in about a month (Stage 1):

KON-M1113-YE
TCA022
SP065
CAB005
UTCA033
UCM002
SB041
SB042

I'm hoping your Watts link is released by then and that would be added to the list. Also added would be the Vorshlag CC Plates.

Stage 2 will address the front end of the car with a k-member and control arms. Stage 3 will be 18" wheels and tires.

Is there anything you would recommend changing to the list? Would you recommend the Bilstein B12 vs the Koni's?

Now that is one badass package. It looks like you are a fan of doing things the right way.

As for the TCA022 - I say go for the TCA021. If you are going to use a bearing on one side, may as well make it adjustable.

With the TCA021 you can optimize the wheelbase (longer is almost always better for open track, and drag....and shorter is better for AutoX, generally) - as well as enable you to square the rear up perfectly and get the thrust angle to ZERO. Not only those, but if/when the bearing fails, it is cheaper and easier to replace the bearing on the TCA021.

With the TCA021, you can also run the Seals It Boots (Part # RERS3). These will lessen NVH increase, and help provide a longer life to the bearing due to keeping it DE-contaminated.

The Watts should be available in a month. I cannot promise it, but it should be.

Bilstein and Koni, I am neutral on. I really like the Koni's, and so do hundreds of my customers. I am also a big fan of the Bilsteins.

When push comes to shove, if the car is going to be used on a track....I'll take the Koni's all day over the Bilsteins.

This is not meant as a slight, but is there a reason why these two pieces together cost around what the whole Watts link system you're developing does (besides you doing serious work to keep the Watts $ down)?.

bmr-utca033h_ml.jpg


ucm002h.jpg


Is this some kind of unique teflon lined heim joint? I'd prefer to go poly upper for NVH, but have read a few cases during serious road course use of UCA poly failing leading the stang veering off the course
.

Not taken as a slight. I can completely see why people would get sticker shock when seeing the price of our "Ultimate" UCA Assembly.

This piece was a no-holds barred design process. I have entire development threads about the UTCA033 - walking people through the process.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?968242-All-of-this-UCA-talk!&highlight=

We chose to use 7075 Aluminum (anodized of course) instead of 6061.

For the center adjuster (which is the strongest and largest in the industry, and was "knocked off" for the Cobra Jet program) we decided to drill it out, to remove some weight from the system.

The 1" bearing (only UCA to feature a 1" bearing, housed) is a US Made FK Bearing, that goes for about $35 for the bearing alone. It is load rated to 90,000lbs! To put that into perspective, your average 3/4" rod end UCA from most makers is load rated to about 24,000lbs. I have a folder full of photos of broken 3/4" Rod ends that were used on UCA systems on the S197 Platform. You will never see us use a traditional Style Rod-End for an UCA on a 3-Link Style Suspension. Heck, we don't even make a Rod-Ended UCA for any car, all housed spherical bearings.

With that bearing, there is also the cost of our own custom billet machined bearing cup. In the thread I linked above, you will see development shots with these UCA systems and each bearing cup is marked. We weld to the cup, so we have to precisely engineer the cup to ensure the bearing press is smooth and UN-interrupted. We have a lot of time and money into the bearing end on this UCA. 7075 spacers, FK 1" Bearing, Billet Cup, HD Steel Retaining ring. Pricey..

On the opposite end of the bearing, we added a 3/16" steel gusset to this piece. Our Poly UTCA032 does not feature this part, as it has never been needed - but we know that going to a bearing places a lot more load on the aft end of the UCA, so we went ahead and addressed this before ever having an issue.

Between the engineering costs, machining, uniqueness and low volume....I am actually happy that it is now $319.95

For the last year, it was $349.95 and flew off the shelves. Due to volume increasing more than we anticipated, we were able to drop the price and pass it along.

Our UCA Mount is $159.95 because it is more complex than most, is better engineered, and to my knowledge - we are the only company that double welds the pieces together. The CNC formed plate that welds to the body mount plate, is welded completely on the top and bottom side. Doing so, makes the manufacturing costs rise substantially because we have much more fabrication time into it, AND it is much harder to build to fit properly due to the amount of heat we place into it (from double welding it)

Rest assured, we have never had an UCA mount fail, and we have never had an UCA fail - so people buy our components with confidence that they are the best.

As for using a Poly UCA for handling duty, no way I would ever do that. I rarely ever recommend it, and if I do recommend it I ask the customer to use a bearing on the diff mount to prevent excessive binding.

My personal favorite combo is a poly diff bushing, paired with a bearing UCA.

BMR Tech –

I need some more traction help on my 2008 GT500 convertible. I have about 500 RWP (pulley swap & tune) and 4.30 gears. Rear tires are Hooser QTP 28x11.50-15 on 10” wheels set to about 12.5 PSI. Suspension is BMR drag race springs, rear Vikings shocks set at 3/3, and front Strange struts set at 5 just are you recommended. UCA / LCA are from Eibach Pro kit. I have BMR LCA relocation brackets and am using the middle hole. The UCA bracket is from the Eibach Pro kit. It has two holes and the UCA is mounted to the body using the front hole in the UCA mount. It also has the rear anti-sway bar from the Eibach Pro Kit. The clutch is a McLeod improvement over stock.

First, the good news is the change to BMR springs and recommended shocks/struts were an improvement in making the car launch more smoothly. There was none of the squat-then-bounce up and unload I experienced with the Eibach Pro springs and shocks/struts. Thanks.

But I am still getting plenty of wheel spin from the QTP.

Launching at 4000 RPM I get spin for maybe the first 50’. It transitions smoothly to hook, but my 60’ times are 1.95.

Launching at 2000 RPM I get spin for maybe the first 30’. My 60’ times are high 1.80s, a slight improvement, but obviously I’m leaving a lot of power unused.

Launching at just above idle gave me the best 60’ of 1.81 but I really want to find a way to apply more power than that!

One other bit of data, in my burnout after I have warmed and cleaned the tires with the power still on I release the line lock and let the car advance towards the line. As the tires start to grab there is some wheel-hop as the tires start to grab. I don’t feel any wheel-hop on the launch, but I thought I’d mention it. I don’t feel or hear that intense STICK coming forward from the burnout that I’m used to if things are working right--just the hop.

Thanks for any advice you can offer about what to try next
.

^ I can help.

Drop the LCA down a hole, raise the shocks settings out back to 10C / 5R, set the struts to 2 clicks, and launch at 4000 again after a 5 second long 2nd gear burnout.

As for the hop on the burnout, is the car one wheel peeling? Do you have our poly bushings? If so, maybe it is time to replace the bushings, or upgrade to bearings. Stick cars and bearings are best friends, especially with 500+HP.

Setup 2008 GT500 500RWP
- BMR drag race springs
- Front struts single adjustable Strange
- Rear LCA BMR relocation brackets, Rear tubular LCA
- Rear UCA bracket Eibach Pro with UCA connected at bracket’s front hole
- Rear shocks double adjustable Vikings
- Rear tires QUICK TIME PRO 28x11.50-15LT

I’ve been adjusting the suspension for more aggressive hook: moved the LCA to the lowest hole in the LCA relocation bracket. I’ve adjusted the front in increments from 5 down to 2. I’ve adjusted the rear in increments from 3C/3R to 2C/8R.

Burnouts in 2-nd gear for 4-5 seconds.

Launches at 2,000 RPM hook with a 1.75 60’ time. Anything more than 2,000 RPM spins: 3,000 RPM = 1.85 60’, 4,000 RPM = 1.95 60’.

I’d really like to be able to launch with more power at a higher RPM if I can get better hook.

First question, is the front hole on the Eibach Pro UCA mount the correct one to be using?

Second question, is there anything likely to be gained going from 2 to 0 on the front strut setting? Is there anything likely to be gained with compression softer than 2 and/or rebound firmer than 8?

Thanks for the help.

I like combos like yours to launch in the 4500RPM range, with just a little bit of wheel speed.

My suggestion for you is to

-Strange Struts in the 2-3 click range clockwise, from full soft.
-Viking Shocks in the 5C / 9R range.
-Tires at 13.5 - 14 PSI cold, pre-burnout

There is not a magical setting. I only provide base settings from my experiences with many combinations (I have direct personal experience with your combo) - BUT the most important thing is take notes on every pass, and find a pattern. This is one reason I like a 2-step, to help with finding that pattern. Too often, people just give up on experimenting and launch at say, 2K rpm. The proper way to do it is to push the limits, and make the car work above and beyond what your settling for. So for example in your case, if the car "works" at 2K rpm, but does not perform to your liking....you need to be making passes at higher RPM and finding what will improve your times in those scenarios. This, again, is why I like the 2-steps. Set it at 3500 and make your adjustments until you get it to work. Then 4K...repeat....etc etc.

In your case, the settings you have provided are too low. Honestly, anything under 6 or so on C/R basically removes the benefit of having such a good rear shock - a $90 Strange Shock would work just as well.

Stick shift cars hit the tires harder, so naturally, you will run stiffer settings to help control the "hit" to the tires.

Now back to your car. If this new setting I told you works initially, then unloads.....repeat the run and add a click to the front struts (you DO NOT want the front to come up "too" quickly, because it disrupts the rear)

If the car blows the tires off initially....immediately on the hit, raise the Rebound up a little on the rear shocks. You are using the lowest position on the RLCA Brackets, so there is two ways to approach it. First, you can go LOW on the Rebound to let the suspension hit the tires hard (usually better for Autos) or you can go HIGH on the Rebound, to apply a hard but steadier, more controlled hit to the tires (usually better for stick cars....or high RPM Trans Brakes)

Hope this helps!

Kelly, I have a 2010 GT500 680rwhp 620ftlbs
BMR drag springs, Strange adjustable front struts, Viking double adjustable rear shocks, BMR radiator support with no front sway bar, BMR adjustable upper/lower control arms and pan hard bar. Mickey Thompson ET STREET Pro tires. How do you recommend setting the car up to 60ft?

I do not currently have the BMR upper control arm mount. Do you think it would help my car/set up 60ft at all?

Set the front struts at 2 clicks.

LCA in the middle position on the relos.

Start with the Vikings at 7C/11R.....and work the "R" down until it works for you.

As for the UCA Mount, it should help a little, but I cannot promise you will get substantial gains from it. If you were to need the lower position on the UCA Mount, which you shouldn't - then it would be very good gains.

Let us know who it works!

Kelly,
First let me say thanks for your help in the past. We all appreciate you taking the time to help answer our questions!

I am running BMR adjustable LCA, relo brackets, and adj PHB. i am running Eibach Sportlines springs. The car drives perfect and has aligned out perfect too. My question is this...
When I take sharp turns either while backing or forward into a parking space, the car seems to lean in the rear toward the passengers side. It stays that way until I drive it, then it evens back out. It's about 1/2-3/4 up on the drivers side and the same amount down on the passenger side. Anything pop in your head to check? Last oil change everything was checkout and was tight and in place? It's been a little baffling!

You are quite welcome! I enjoy it.

What you are experiencing is a panhard bar suspension. That is how they work, and the effects are amplified by the RLCA Brackets. (steeper the angle, the more pronounced it will be, due to the increased leverage/arc)

I wouldn't worry about it. ;-)

This thread alone has resulted in me changing up a few things.
I purchased some Vikings due to all of the great things I hear about them and there has to be a reason that all of the shops recommend them. I'll also be installing my BMR arb at the same time.

Now I just have to find the killer deal on front struts to complete my package as its the only stock part left. 1.3x 60s will be mine!

Woohoo!

When the time comes for dialing it in, just revisit this thread and I will be happy to assist!
 
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1Bad5.0

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OK, you asked for it LOL....I recently installed the double adjustable sperichal lca, and the adjustable uca, and mount.....this is a stock ride height car.......what would be the next steps for improved traction

N/A A6 with a circle d 4C
 

nonliberal

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Tis the season, once it warms up around here you can bet your ass you will be getting questions and video to examine from me. lol

Right now I probably wouldn't get enough traction to cause the suspension to react.
 

Voltwings

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When lowering the car, which is more important to address first (if its relevant): Getting an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the axle, or an adjustable UCA to re-align the pinion angle? (i already have LCA's and brackets.)
 

blackbeast12

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When lowering the car, which is more important to address first (if its relevant): Getting an adjustable panhard bar to re-center the axle, or an adjustable UCA to re-align the pinion angle? (i already have LCA's and brackets.)

For handling its more important to center the axle, for traction is more important to have an adj uca and set the perfect pinion angle! But lca's and relocation brackets have the biggest impact on traction!

See attached:

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA _adj.htm


Instant Center Calculator for your drag car suspension
 

Rct851

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Alright. I thought I read LCA,a should be installed with the suspension loaded at ride height. So I can install them with the front rolled up on ramps and jack stands under the rear axles?

And for a bolt on power street car that is lowered on bmr springs and tokico d specs, which bracket hole should the LCAs be mounted?
 
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13BremboGT

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So....we are selling record amounts of S197 Suspension product right now, yet, people aren't needing my assistance any more?

What tha?

Bring some tech questions. I am all ears (eyes)

Surely someone is having traction issues with all this HP being made!

:beer:

Here's one for you.... Best sway-bar setup for auto-X?
 

SirJAG

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i have brm springs on my 12 gt/cs...on stock hardware...my ride is only bouncy at about 70-85mph over small rolling dips in the road...i hate this...what do i need to upgrade to fix this...
 

blackbeast12

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i have brm springs on my 12 gt/cs...on stock hardware...my ride is only bouncy at about 70-85mph over small rolling dips in the road...i hate this...what do i need to upgrade to fix this...

A good set of adjustable struts and shocks with upgraded strut mounts should solve your problem!
 

BMR Tech

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Awesome questions! I'm still feeling a little ill....from no sleep and a little too many drinks. Later this evening, I'll sit down and address a few things for those who have asked.

Happy new year!
 

VETTEHUNTER

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Kelly,

Add these to the list since a lot of guys seem to ask..I did a lot of trial and error getting my set-up right and all this info in one place would have been nice:

LCA Relo Brackets: Which hole for what kind of drop...In other words, how much should the LCA's be angled down from the body mount to the rear axle?

Adjustable UCA: What mounting hole should be used for which types of set-ups?

Pinion Angle: What angle is ideal for the the best overall compromise between performance and least amount of NVH...M6 and A6.

I understand there is NO SINGLE answer for each question due to the endless combinations and set-ups guys are running....just looking for a starting point for those who are looking to get a good starting point when installing rear suspension components.

Thanks
 
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65sohc

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I have read that with modest BMR-type lowering it is not necessary to adjust pinion angle if you are using a CV-equipped one piece driveshaft such as a Dynotech. Is this true?
 

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