Damn, any idea what caused that? New tank wasn't cleaned out properly?
out with the new and in with the old. (build thread)
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Have read this thread in a bit. Good progress Dave.
see below.
Basically the trunk thats on the car is only temporary, When I run any sort of weather stripping/latch it will not align, no matter what I do. The inner frame of the trunk would have to be completely cut/sectioned/rebuilt. In addition I am not happy with the quality of it at all. When I repaint the car in a year or two it will be getting replaced. :bash:
This is with the weatherstripping in. (old one from when the car was first on the road) its funny to see how far the car has come since then lol
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But you can see how messed up the gap is.
and currently with just the latch.:bash::bash:
My buddy makes hinges for these cars, here's a link to them. The crazy contraption Ford used to spring the trunk up when it's open tends to lift the driver's side up the way yours is no matter how it's adjusted
Billet Trunk Hinge Mustang Shelby Eleanor 1967 1968 | eBay
been working on the car quite a bit this past month. Ive been trying to work out some of my bugs. I'm still having an issue with the car running lean, and after 3 weeks of diagnosis and checking/replacing everything from sensors, to checking wiring, I've come to the conclusion that the car needs a better tune. So i'm looking into the moates quaterhorse system. Its my only option without spending thousands on a new management such as F.A.S.T. or Big Stuff EFI. However once I put the new motor in I am going to have to.
On to some other upgrades.
Gutted the interior and put HushMat on the floor.
Made a custom cover for the mirror hole in the door panel.
Decided after having the car on the road for 3 years it was time to install an audio system, I wanted to keep the factory radio intact, Instead I decided on a stand alone Ipod system, which is fine because the car has no antenna and I would barely ever listen to the radio. I installed an upgraded speaker in the factory dash, and installed an alpine amp under the passenger seat, so the entire setup is completely hidden minus a small usb cord coming out from under the seat where I can plug in my Iphone/Ipod. It works pretty well, For right now I just have the two underdash speakers but I will most likely install some 4x8 speakers in the doors in the factory spot. Again it will look 100% factory.
I found a set of sequential relays for the taillights, I'm still unsure if I want to run them or not.
I addressed some eyesores under the hood as well.
injectors
I also painted some of the plugs on the harness that were tired/gray with some black, TFI, coil, ext ext.
Overall it cleaned up the motor nicely, Nothing to catch your eye in a bad way.
On to some other upgrades.
Gutted the interior and put HushMat on the floor.
Made a custom cover for the mirror hole in the door panel.
Decided after having the car on the road for 3 years it was time to install an audio system, I wanted to keep the factory radio intact, Instead I decided on a stand alone Ipod system, which is fine because the car has no antenna and I would barely ever listen to the radio. I installed an upgraded speaker in the factory dash, and installed an alpine amp under the passenger seat, so the entire setup is completely hidden minus a small usb cord coming out from under the seat where I can plug in my Iphone/Ipod. It works pretty well, For right now I just have the two underdash speakers but I will most likely install some 4x8 speakers in the doors in the factory spot. Again it will look 100% factory.
I found a set of sequential relays for the taillights, I'm still unsure if I want to run them or not.
I addressed some eyesores under the hood as well.
injectors
I also painted some of the plugs on the harness that were tired/gray with some black, TFI, coil, ext ext.
Overall it cleaned up the motor nicely, Nothing to catch your eye in a bad way.
I used the Moates QH and tuned my last car with it. I love it. I usually try and recommend it to anyone with a fox or running an eec-iv. Can't beat live tuning. My LX is still going strong with 11lbs of boost h/c/I on stock bottom end. Eectuning.org has a lot of info.
One of the only complaints I see on the setup you have is the supplied tune. I think I may have actually suggested the moates back a few pages ;-).
One of the only complaints I see on the setup you have is the supplied tune. I think I may have actually suggested the moates back a few pages ;-).
its tough because no one messes with speed density stuff on foxes. "convert to mass air" which simply isn't possible with my setup.
I forgot you had changed to Mega Squirt. I wish I could help but I don't know much on that system. If you had the stock a9l I could. Go on corral.net and look in there. I know there are guys that run the MS setup and may be able to help.
Some info...
http://www.tcstangs.com/forum/showthread.php?106562-The-MegaSquirt-II-5.0-build-thread
And forum link
http://forums.corral.net/forums/megasquirt/
I know guys on turbomustang on using them too.
http://www.tcstangs.com/forum/showthread.php?106562-The-MegaSquirt-II-5.0-build-thread
And forum link
http://forums.corral.net/forums/megasquirt/
I know guys on turbomustang on using them too.
I got rid of the megasquirt last year. I am running the stock 86 ford computer now. It runs decent when it wants to.
I will say I have been considering it. It would just take so much to convert it back to carb, Id have to redo the entire fuel system, wiring, and actual carb parts. If I was to go that route id do dual quads. Well see how the tuning goes.
So you are running a speed density stock computer? They are real finicky with anything other than a stock cam. Do you still have the mass flo mass air meter you could go back too or no? The Gen 1 lightning guys tune there speed density so its possible to do it
yea, stock SD computer. No mass air meter. It has a cam but its odd because most guys will say that it runs like crap, wont idle, stalling. I have nothing like that. It always idled perfectly, never once stalled on me. Its odd because sometimes the car will run perfect, healthy AFR, and ive driven the car a good distance (40-50 miles) and it runs perfect the whole time, WOT, traffic, highway. however if you shut it off and let it sit for like 5 mins and restart it will run shitty. Very irritating.
Have you tried changing back to the stock distributor? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be that. Actually tried two MSD distributors and happened with both went back to stock and was fine. Just a suggestion.
I was just going to suggest the same thing. They can overheat causing issues.
It's not tune related then. I would monitor the fuel pressure and take a look at the ignition system namely the distributor and tfi module. Sounds more like an ignition issue due to heat once the car has been running awhile. Basically the distributor/tfi get heat soaked after sitting I think. Then when you go to restart it acts up. The only other thing that can also do that is EGR valve that is bad but I doubt you run one. Try the distributor and let us know!
That's what's in it.
I have tried swapping distributors. Ive tried replacing the following MAP sensor, TPS, CTS, IAC, computer. It acted exactly the same. I don't think its temp related because the car will run that way when cold as well. Sometimes sitting in traffic and letting the car get warm will actually make it run better. Odd enough. The car has spark, Otherwise it would run richer. The fuel system in the car is rated for 650HP, and most of it has less than 5,000 miles on it. Ive even swapped out the injectors for other known good ones. And there is no EGR.
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PM me I don't want to go too off topic on your thread.
This weekend represented the 4th year of the car's first show/public appearance, the Adirondack nationals. Being that I was putting the car in the actual show I decided I needed to address another thing on my to-do list. I needed something to cover up the gap from the grille to the radiator support. It kinda took away from the motor.
some old pictures to show what I mean.
so I decided to make a cover out of some 18ga sheet metal. Playing around with some tape to figure out what contour would look good and still clear everything.
Eventually I may make a piece to go over the radiator so I decided to raise the cover compared to the actual rad support since lowering the radiator isnt an option.
then added a strip along the top to cover it, in addition to closing the gap between the radiator and the cover.To finish it off a beadrolled a design in the center that breaks it up and follows the angles of the front nose.
color matched it to the engine bay.
and installed.
some old pictures to show what I mean.
so I decided to make a cover out of some 18ga sheet metal. Playing around with some tape to figure out what contour would look good and still clear everything.
Eventually I may make a piece to go over the radiator so I decided to raise the cover compared to the actual rad support since lowering the radiator isnt an option.
then added a strip along the top to cover it, in addition to closing the gap between the radiator and the cover.To finish it off a beadrolled a design in the center that breaks it up and follows the angles of the front nose.
color matched it to the engine bay.
and installed.
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That came out awesome! Nice work. I passed you yesterday. I was in my race red 2011 GT500
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