2012 Coyote Paxton Install (Pic Heavy)

Nocturnal5.0

Captain Go-Fast
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Hey guys, I figured I've lurked here long enough and finally have some free time to do this writeup on my experience with the Paxton 2200 SL install.

First off, I'd like to thank Beefcake for the great price and Shaun at AED for the great service and amazing tune.

I'd also like to note that any opinions I express in here are just that - my opionions. No nit-picks i have with the install are to reflect upon Beefcake, they are just my personal reflections and preferences on the install of the kit. With that out of the way, on to the pics!

Here are a couple of the car completely bone stock last summer shortly after purchasing it:

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The car was a blast to drive, I loved it, but I wanted something more...and talking with a few friends of mine, I had my sights set on the Paxton kit, and with everyone else going with Whipple / TVS setups, I figured that I'd be the experiement for a higher end centri unit!

All pieces ordered, Paxton 2200 SL tuner kit (Beefcake special, base 3.8 pulley), JLT open element filter, Lethal Performance o/r H-Pipe, Ford Racing 47 lb/hr injectors and an SCT tuner.

This is how everything showed up at my house:

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And unboxed:

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The excitement was unbearable, knowing that there were 200 horses sitting in boxes on the floor. Unfortunately, I had to wait for time off from work during the holidays to get to work on the install, as well as waiting for my friend from Denver to make it here to help me out. Once he was able to make it over, we got to work immediately, knowing we only had a couple of days to get as much of the extra hands work done as possible.

On to the stock motor pics, just before cutting into the car:

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The first order of business was disassembly:

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Nothing too terribly hard about that, but then again, taking stuff off is easier than installing it lol.

With initial disassembly done, it was time to start putting it back together.

Removing the stock H-pipe was relatively easy, but it was made alot easier by having an extra pair of hands. With it out, it was time for the Lethal catless H to replace it:

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Not a bad install, but be sure if you have an aftermarket H or X pipe to put on with the kit, that you do this first, as it will be an absolute bastard to get at the flange bolts on the passenger side with the overflow tank for the kit installed.

Next was the upper radiator hose modification. You pretty much butcher this thing, pretty easy, but there are some things to take note of, but more on that later.

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There are alot of small coolant line modifications you have to do, but nothing worth taking pictures of that weren't the upper hose.

Next was a small, albeit important step, bending the larger AC line over. Luckily, I had a good amount of shims laying about and was able to get just the right amount of bracing on the bottom of this line. I didn't break mine, and after it was bent, looking back on it, it really is very simple, but be cautious is key here, only bent small amounts at a time, test fitting the overflow tank and bending the line over just far enough to allow the tank to seat correctly.

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While I set to work cutting the fan shroud, my friend started working on getting the blower bracket installed (we still aren't quite sure of the best way to get this installed completely hassle free, but having an extra set of hands is invaluable here). Unfortunately, I don't have pics of the modified fan shroud, I don't know which one of the three cameras I used during this install they got onto lol.

This is just after getting the blower mounted:

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Next up was the intercooler, again, nothing hard but the piping takes some finesse to get to fit correctly. It's not hard, but being careful here will help prevent boost leaks or couplers blowing off. I didn't, and still don't have any issues with boost leaks, everything fits like a glove:

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With the intercooler installed, it was time to get the rest of the IC / intake piping together:

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Now for more fun cutting. The front bumper wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be, just measure twice, cut once, and cut small amounts at a time. I was actually able to get a very straight line by hand with no guides using a dremel tool, very impressed with how well it fits once trimmed.

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And then for the splash guard under the front of the car:

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The actual install only takes about 8 - 10 hours, but I had some complications I'll address next here to give a heads up to anyone doing the install, but first, the finished product!

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Nocturnal5.0

Captain Go-Fast
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Alright, now for the fun facts section. I ran into a few things that caused quite the headache and I'd like to let anyone thinking about installing this kit know in advance, just in case, so that you don't end up with the down time I did! Again, these are just my personal issues that I ran into, and you may not have the same problems that I encountered.

(As a side note, the instructions with this kit are very good, and will help you out tremendously, but there are some grey areas, so if anyone has any questions, post them here or PM me and I'll be happy to answer them if I can!)

First off, the radiator hoses, coolant and overflow tank.

When modifying the upper radiator hose, I figured there would be an increased chance to leak, and, well, I was right. However, the fault was my own, and not that of the kit. When you mount the portion of the upper hose connected to the radiator to the 90* elbow, do NOT distort the hose over the elbow. If it starts to pull over onto the bend of it, it will leak, and believe me, you do not want to pull this damn thing back out. Just insert the elbow far enough into the hose to get the worm clamp to bite fully past the bead rolled flange on the end of the elbow and you'll be set.

(Side note, it will tell you to install the upper radiator hose back into the car early on, but you'll be fighting it every step of the way with other parts of the install, we found it best to wait to install it back into the car AFTER we had the radiator fan installed back into the car.)

Next is the overflow tank. The tank that comes with the kit is GARBAGE, flat out. Some people don't have issues with it, but mine leaked upon the very first startup, and oh my god, what a pain in the ass. I tired everything to get it to seal, but nothing would work, the actual plastic case was cracked. FML. I then had to wait about two weeks to get the back ordered JPC aluminum overflow tank during new years. Don't even chance this happening to you, purchase one from JPC when you buy this kit, it is a very quality piece and worth every penny.

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Lastly for the coolant problems, the instructions only tell you to drain enough coolant to empty the upper radiator hose. This is only partially true, as eventually you'll need to turn the lower radiator hose around, so emtpy the whole thing into a clean, sealable container, and set it aside for later.

If you need more coolant, do NOT mix prestone or anything else you get from your local auto parts store with the stock coolant, go to ford and pick up the Motorcraft stock replacement coolant. It's only 15 bucks a gallon.

Next up, the wiring harness on the passenger side head. When it tells you to be careful removing it, they aren't kidding. If you try to go too fast on this you'll hear you friend say "oh shit" and you'll walk over to this lol:

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This is how long the christmas tree is when it's not broken off in the threaded hole you need to use to mount the blower:

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To remove that piece of plastic without messing up the threads, I had to spend about an hour using a dremel tool with a small drill bit as well as hand turning the correct sized bit by hand to remove it. Trust me, you don't want to deal wth this lol.

Next up, the heat shield for the JLT intake. Ok, I'm not sure what the heck was up with this, but I went back and forth with a couple of people about this, and no one thought there was a problem. Well, as you'll see in these pictures, at least with the heat shield I received, it was anything but ok.

The problem for me arose from the fact that you have to turn the lower radiator hose around to allow for correct passage of the IC piping. When you do this, it causes the hose to intrude into the area that the shield occupies by about two inches, minimum, which does not allow it to seat.

Case in point, shroud before modification:

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And the lower hose by itself, flipped around as per the instructions:

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You can see that it is actually sitting on top of the lower hose, which is preventing it from going down the inch and a half - two inches it needs to in order to mount to the stud on the radiator. Well shit, no one sees anything wrong here, so I finally say screw it, I'm just going to cut it to fit. This is the end result of that:

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As you can see, I had to cut quite a bit out of the shroud to get it to accomodate the flipped around lower hose.

(Side note here, I even flipped the lower hose around back to stock and the shroud will fit fine like this...however, the IC piping will not fit if you do this, so I was forced to just bite the bullet and cut the shroud to ensure proper fitment of the critical kit pieces.)

Another side note, when you order this kit, order yourself some NGK spark plugs, part number ltr71x-11 also know as the 6510's, and gap them to .032. Don't waste your time on the stock plugs, they will not be optimum for this kit, and you'll probably end up having to do what I did, and replace them after the overflow tank is already installed and you will end up having to move it out of your way to get at the plugs. Not a big deal, but just another time saver.

Now on to some other fun stuff, tuning! I was lucky, and was one of the last few people to be able to receive a tune from Shaun at AED on the street, and didn't have to make a trip to the dyno. Trust me, doing this on the dyno will be far easier and safer than the route I went, so that you don't end up having to scrap logs because you started to spin at the top of 4th due to crappy stock tires lol. And speaking of tires, the stock ones are garbage, but with brembos I was in a bind on the kind of tire I could actually mount to the rear. I ended up going the slightly cheaper route, and went with some NT05's in a 275 35 19 (not the NT05R's, they don't make one for a 19" rim that is smaller than a 345 lol).

Old tires:

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Comparison:

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New tires:

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I can't say enough good things about Shaun at AED, extremely helpful and personable. He was very fast to respond to every one of my questions and to send me revisions for every log I sent him. The car has amazing drivability, and the power comes on strong and stays perfect all the way to redline. Anyone looking for a forced induction tune, or just an NA tune, I would highly recommend Shaun.

Now for a couple of videos of the car, the first is a 40 - 140, and the second was a friendly race with a friend of mine in a stock 2012 Camaro SS (we already knew the outcome of the race, but he just wanted to see the car run lol)

[youtube_browser]yFX8SVd_jYM[/youtube_browser]

[youtube_browser]gzkdTAF6sTc[/youtube_browser]

As I said before, if anyone has any questions, feel free to ask, and I'll do my best to help you out!

Thanks for looking!
 
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slagburn

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Nice, detailed writeup, Mike was telling me how fun the hose mods are and now I see why. You'll have to bring it down to the Front Range this year once Bandimere opens.
 

truebluedevil02

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Nice, detailed writeup, Mike was telling me how fun the hose mods are and now I see why. You'll have to bring it down to the Front Range this year once Bandimere opens.

He will be, and its looking like I will be ordering my Paxton this week:banana: You ready for the install Jon?
 

Nocturnal5.0

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Nice, detailed writeup, Mike was telling me how fun the hose mods are and now I see why. You'll have to bring it down to the Front Range this year once Bandimere opens.

For sure, I would have been over this weekend to try to dyno it at RWR, but Rob is out of state and the weather was nasty. The hose mods really aren't too bad, but I hope I can save others the pain of the overflow tank and upper radiator hose issues I had lol.
 

bam2012@TBR

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Good write up and videos. I have a kit on the way from beefcake. I have the spark plugs and should have my overflow tank shortly. I bought the one on american muscle that others have said is the right one, but it says 05-09. Only think I am worried about is the ac line, I have shims so I will use your way to adjust the line.
 

Nocturnal5.0

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Good write up and videos. I have a kit on the way from beefcake. I have the spark plugs and should have my overflow tank shortly. I bought the one on american muscle that others have said is the right one, but it says 05-09. Only think I am worried about is the ac line, I have shims so I will use your way to adjust the line.

The AC line isn't bad, but the key is to get the fulcrum in the correct spot down on the line. You just need to bend it a little, less than you might think. It also shows you pics in the Paxton install guide on Adobe that comes with the kit. The upper part of the line is rubber, and connects to the bottom aluminum piece that you bend. It will flex a bit for you, so that you don't have to get too extreme with it. Just take it slow and it will work for ya.
 

92hatchlx

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Adjust the AC line as per the instructions, and SLOWLY, and you should be fine. Do just as the OP and I did, adjust it and test fit until it is perfect.
 

Nocturnal5.0

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Very nice! Have you made it do a dyno yet?

Well, yes and no. There is only one dyno in my town, and it's a superflow. The main reason I didn't put it on a dyno to tune in th first place is because this shop is not very reputable, and they motly deal with AWD cars, so their two wheel drive dyno hasn't been calibrated in god knows how long. Well, I went down there a couple days ago because I wanted to confirm AFR and boost levels (I don't have a boost gauge installed, as I'm just running the base 3.8" pulley).

The problems started when they first loaded the car on the dyno, and wouldn't listen to me, when I requested the car be placed in 5th gear to dyno, as it's the 1:1 gear. Then there was the issue of them messing around with the load on the dyno, trying to get it locked in (because 4th was messing with it, go figure). The car put down 546 whp / 421 wtq STP corrected (no idea wtf STP is in relation to STD and SAE, because apparently, most places don't even use it).

The thing is, I've maxed out the 47 lb/hr injectors at only 6900 rpms, which, from everything me and my friends have seen, would put the car slightly over 600 whp.

Then the owner of this shop tells me they dynoed a new boss 302, and it put down 340 whp STP corrected, which I told him was odd, considdering my car put down 386 whp SAE corrected. I think this dyno is either wrong, or the 546 is closer to actual HP at this elevation, and not a corrected variation for sea level.

Whatever the case may be, my car will be getting dynoed at a much more reputable shop (RWR in Denver) here in the next month, weather permitting, and we can see a more accurate estimation of the power its making.
 

blackbeast12

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I'm about to have Jpc install this exact kit for me, you have any idea what kind of rwhp your making after the install? I will be adding american racing headers with catted x pipe. Also I have 3:31's which I plan on keeping. What gears are you running? I noticed that didn't seem like you spun to much, but it was a 40 mph roll, thanks!
 
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truebluedevil02

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I'm about to have Jpc install this exact kit for me, you have any idea what kind of rwhp your making after the install? I will be adding american racing headers with catted x pipe. Also I have 3:31's which I plan on keeping. What gears are you running? I noticed that didn't seem like you spun to much, but it was a 40 mph roll, thanks!

The race was from a 30mph roll. You will likely be making right around 600whp, that is a pretty standard # with a base paxton and custom tune. If I were you I would not bother with the Long tubes as they dont add enough HP to make it worth the $ unless you want them for the sound. Read the OP post above yours to see the HP. He had to swap tires to plant the power. The car on the stock 255's would break loose at 70+mph so an upgrade was required. IT is still completely useless in 1st gear.
 

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