Valve Cover Removal

ravenknight

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It didnt mess up my mounts, but the hp gains we add will eventually, lol. Just remove the bottom nut that mounts on the k member and then get a mall 2x4 and place on jack and lift driver side, we had to put close to transmission and as close as you can to engine. just remember to loosen dip stick cause install will not allow you to put vc back on with it tight. It comes out fine though. Yes when vc is off lower back down and do whatever else you need to do. Good luck on heads that you may need remove booster. just so you have plenty of room. Havent gone that far yet.
 
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DuffManRHA

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Ok, so i just remove nuts on motor mount and jack up engine? just like that? it wont mess up the passenger side motor mount and i dont need to remove anything other than dipstick? where are ur jacking points?

Oh and im removing heads too should i just put the engine back on mount and secure once i pull valve covers off or do i need the clearance for the heads too?

thanks raven

Obviously I haven't done it this way myself since I'm asking for pics and help too, but I think you could loosen the pass side mount bolt/nut. That way the engine could rotate at that point so you don't bind up the mount or tear an already-starting-to-go mount.
 

333arod333

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I ended up taking the brake booster off bc we didnt have a nice floor jack around.

It only took like an hour it wasnt that big of a deal. my buddy got to that top left bolt on the inside of the brake booster firewall plate without even removing any of those linkages or brake light switch or electric stuff.

idk if i need to take them off anyway to seperate the booster from the firewall though...
 

Midnight_Cobra

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Great write-up. However, it seems to be a PITA to get it done. I am sure the end result is satisfying.

I did this and it took me like 8 hours to have the cover off. This is my first time really working on the DOHC so I was learning on the way. But it only took me like 2 hours to put it back together. I even took the booster and master cylinder off.

Oh and OP I figured out how to take that connector off the master cylinder. It's just a squeeze and pull. It's a PITA but you just have to work at it. It took me an hour to figure it out. The FRPS connector is the same connector so I practiced on that a few times. :bash:
 
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Crusher9008

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i'm really debating on attempting the motor mount way or the brake booster way. I currently have the car in the garage with the passanger side valve cover off.(that was a pain. I will be attempting this tommorow. Wish me luck. I'm just going to take some long strips of painters tape and tape the hell out of the valve covers so I dont scratch them upon re-install. Wish me luck.
 

91svtcoupe

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How tight are you guys tightening your Cam Cover Bolts back down?


I just did a COP conversion on my B Headed Motor and it just feels like its squeezing the gasket too much? However the bolts need to be tight correct?

Also the COP feels very lazy going on the Plug its self. Are they pretty much all that way?

Thanks
 

Crusher9008

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Just installed mine did a crossing pattern to get equal pressure around cover. I tighted them by hand oretty snug but did not crank down on them...

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91svtcoupe

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I did all my with a 1/4 inch drive and tightened them down to snug. Then gave them all a turn in a 3/8 drive. ??????????? Maybe I'm good. I don't see no gasket pushing out but my grouments are pretty squeezed.
 

Storm728

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just got my drivers side off today on a mach. i ended up taking off the big bolt that holds down the power steering fluid lines to the hydroboost. barely made a mess and allowed me to fully remove the booster from the engine bay, made it a hell of a lot easier. now only if i wasnt doing this in an alleyway......
 

JDUB348

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Excellent write up. Only thing i thought was not as hard as the OP described was removing the upper left bolt on the inside of the car to get the brake booster off. I just used one of my gear wrenches and it came right off :shrug: (Should mention my car's interior is completely out right now, so i was able to lay down completely and get way up in there)

I had a hard time getting the valve cover off for a good 15 minutes of hulking out on it. After a while i just took the brake booster and pulled it way further out of the fire wall and BAM.. valve cover started instantly coming out.

Thanks for the write up..
 
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Code Name

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Newbie....do you have to remove the supercharger to change the valve covers? Was quoted $300 to change them said the charger(whipple) had to be removed! I thought the price was high! Your thoughts?
 

Crusher9008

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Newbie....do you have to remove the supercharger to change the valve covers? Was quoted $300 to change them said the charger(whipple) had to be removed! I thought the price was high! Your thoughts?

Whipple must be removed to do this but if you have the heaton you can do it by simply removing the plentum

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2001Snake

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Why not just drop the k member a bit? Only 8 bolts on the k member and it will fall to the ground.
 

mrose75

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Thanks for this write up! I was going to go the motor mount method, until my jack crapped out on me! So I followed this DIY(out of order, which sucks) and got it done with a buddies help. I did the passenger side by myself, but need a hand with the driver's side. Now I just hope I can get it all back together again!
 

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