Boss 5.0 / 10.7:1 / Lysholm 3.3 / E85 build!!

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earico

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No offense, but Kevin and Steve are the wrong guys to be arguing with.

I honestly don't consider it arguing. I have respect for both gentlemen as they have both accomplished with their Terminators only what most of us dream of.

My car is a 99% street driven car. I want it to perform on the street to it's max when I choose too. I am simply wanting to know their thoughts on heatsoak. I have personally already decided to sell my car and go back to a turbo car because I am sick of how heatsoak effects these cars on the street. If it wasn't an issue then Killer Chillers wouldn't even exist. I will never own a PD blower street use car again. JMO and choice.
 

AntiHeightPunk

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I think we are all trying to understand a concept that seems pretty elementary....but apparently it is not? Which is why we want an explanation...
 

03Steve

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There is no evidence that the blower, with a 4.0" upper running 73% of peak blower efficiency (at 7000RPM) and 13psi of backpressure, was heatsoaked. There is evidence while the throttle was closed before the run that IAT2 was 162*. There is also evidence that the car is not stripped down weight wise, and that the driver was taking it easy.

All blowers create heat. Any blower that approaches or exceeds its efficiency is going get hot quicker. There is data from centrifugal blowers, with and without intercoolers, with and without meth, with air to air and with air to water intercooling systems. The argument that PD blowers are the worst in that respect is questionable, as downstream temps are subject to other factors than just the blower type.

I understand what you are saying about your preference, but that is not the subject. If I was in Las Vegas, I would want a combination with a cooling system that would work as efficient as possible. But I definitely wouldn't be on a national forum in someone else's build thread, telling them that their power adder choice wasn't thought through well enough because it may not work in your situation.
 
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earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
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There is no evidence that the blower, with a 4.0" upper running 73% of peak blower efficiency (at 7000RPM) and 13psi of backpressure, was heatsoaked. There is evidence while the throttle was closed before the run that IAT2 was 162*. There is also evidence that the car is not stripped down weight wise, and that the driver was taking it easy.

All blowers create heat. Any blower that approaches or exceeds its efficiency is going get hot quicker. There is data from centrifugal blowers, with and without intercoolers, with and without meth, with air to air and with air to water intercooling systems. The argument that PD blowers are the worst in that respect is questionable, as downstream temps are subject to other factors than just the blower type.

I understand what you are saying about your preference, but that is not the subject. If I was in Las Vegas, I would want a combination with a cooling system that would work as efficient as possible. But I definitely wouldn't be on a national forum in someone else's build thread, telling them that their power adder choice wasn't thought through well enough because it may not work in your situation.

I would love to discuss this in another thread and hear your incite on the matter as I do not want to mud up this thread any further. I was just shocked the car barely trapped over 130 with very decent 60' times and good tires. Even if he wasn't driving it to the max I would expect it to do way better than it did with well over 800rwhp on tap. I will anxiously wait results for better trap speeds when the car is run again. :beer:
 

11Sec_Lx

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earico, thanks for calling it a day here. I plan to run it next in the spring, with an icebox in place (under the hood), using proper icing strategies to make it affective. I may add 3.55's to the mix as well, as I wasn't in 4th long at all before the traps. I also plan to add stiff wall 26x10x15 ET Drrags for a little more bite and stability at speed, to allow me to be more aggressive with my driving, downtrack. Ideally I will have my act together by summer and then wait for the Bowling Green NMRA race to come around and then compete in the Terminator/GT500 shootout.
 
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11Sec_Lx

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Anybody know how to contact Skaarew04svt? I am having trouble reaching him and have a few questions still on some mods he did to the car. Thank you.
 

Nadra

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earico, thanks for calling it a day here. I plan to run it next in the spring, with an icebox in place (under the hood), using proper icing strategies to make it affective. I may add 3.55's to the mix as well, as I wasn't in 4th long at all before the traps. I also plan to add stiff wall 26x10x15 ET Drrags for a little more bite and stability at speed, to allow me to be more aggressive with my driving, downtrack. Ideally I will have my act together by summer and then wait for the Bowling Green NMRA race to come around and then compete in the Terminator/GT500 shootout.

Well my thoughts are this: first time out with the car tuned waaaay down and the suspension not even touched for drag racing (front/rear shocks, pinion angle, etc) and it STILL goes that fast?? That is a great starting place. I really think you should consider a Drag Radial. They work great in heavy cars and you can forget about that top end wobble. The car will drive straight as an arrow, will still 60' good and will get you good top end numbers as well. Granted, my car is only your typical 600 rwhp car - a far cry from the power your car makes - but on 315" MT DR's, and me driving it relatively easy, it still goes 10.90's at 131ish all day long. I don't leave on the 2-step as one of the disadvantages of the DR is that it is not very forgiving when it comes to axles...no soft sidewall to absorb the torque like a slick will. Not setting any records but at trap speed, it's like driving 60 mph. There are cars out there that will run 7.60's all day long on DR's. Of course these are race cars (primarily Super Street Outlaw) with the suspension set up right but my point is that they can handle high HP (to a certain degree of course, I don't expect to see a top fuel funny car or dragster on a DR anytime soon). And the drive quality is astronomically better than a slick. It won't feel like you drove half a mile just to cover a quarter mile Hell it won't even cost you anything to try...it had a set of Hoosier DR's on it when you bought it :beer:
 

11Sec_Lx

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Anybody know how to contact Skaarew04svt? I am having trouble reaching him and have a few questions still on some mods he did to the car. Thank you.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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You don't have his phone number, email nothing huh?? How did you contact him for the sale of the car?? Maybe he's busy
 

11Sec_Lx

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I didn't say that, just said I haven't been able to reach him. I have some questions still about the car and still need something that was promised.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Well I can say that most of us won't have the resources to contact him like you do. Maybe Kevin does.. Again maybe he's busy..
 

forcefedcobra

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Anybody know how to contact Skaarew04svt? I am having trouble reaching him and have a few questions still on some mods he did to the car. Thank you.

You don't have his phone number, email nothing huh?? How did you contact him for the sale of the car?? Maybe he's busy

He is stupid busy. All of us are. We normally speak daily and it has been a couple weeks due to busy times.


As for IAT's and ET's. There are many other variables going on here. You can only assume that speeds were similar to a car with 100 less rwhp if each car was running at the same DA and each were at as close to 100% throttle and traction during runs.
 

03kevo

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It's no big deal. I figured it out.


Hey, maybe you should start your own thread about your high AITs and low ETs or whatever, in a different thread. You are kinda shitting on this build thread with your concerns. And then, in that thread of yours, you can link this build thread.:beer:
 
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