E85 eating main bearings???

Vnmous1_04

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Mobil 1 said that because their diesel oils have very strong additive packs. You will find similar robust additive packs in true synthetic PCMO lubricants.

Royal Purple HPS

Amsoil Signature Series

Both offer what you need.



You would be correct. Any true synthetic 10W-30 would offer stellar performance in your engine.

Great information now off to order some Amsoil 10w-30 dominator oil and off to the dyno lol :beer:

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UnleashedBeast

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Great information now off to order some Amsoil 10w-30 dominator oil and off to the dyno lol :beer:

Sent from Sprint Samsung Epic Touch 4G

Depending on your application, you may not need Dominator race oil lubricant. The Signature Series could possible work just fine, however I would need to know more about your setup and primary usage of the car.
 

Carbd86GT

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Diesel oils are not my primary choice to find lubricants that pass API SN certification standards, yet still have higher levels of ZDDP, and for three reasons.

1. Diesel lubricants commonly use magnesium and calcium as a detergent agent. Some tribologists have suggested that elevated magnesium ppm can cause deposit build up in gasoline engines. PCMO use primarily calcium.

2. Higher ZDDP doesn't always mean lower wear. I've noticed that lubricants containing lower levels of ZDDP, yet using moly and boron substitutes, having great UOAs as well. I'm still on the fence about high levels of ZDDP being a must for a street, non race car application.

3. You can see in the Amsoil sample above, higher ZDDP can be found outside of a dedicated diesel lubricant. You will also find high levels of ZDDP in Royal Purple HPS and XPR

Yeah, I always used the Shell Rotella T because it had a high amount of ZDDP, it's relatively cheap, and I can get it at any auto parts store. If I didn't mind driving out of my way or ordering, I would use Amsoil. :beer:
 

bambinov8

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Mobil 1 said that because their diesel oils have very strong additive packs. You will find similar robust additive packs in true synthetic PCMO lubricants.

Royal Purple HPS

Amsoil Signature Series

Both offer what you need.



You would be correct. Any true synthetic 10W-30 would offer stellar performance in your engine. Good luck making it shear. After 4,124 miles in my GT500, Amsoil 10W-30 sheared 0% maintaining its virgin viscosity.
thanks so much for the detailed info unleashed beast :beer: you answered lots of my doubts :) BTW your gt500 is blue with white stripes ?
 

Blueline

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As usual Unleashed Beast delivers! Its funny, I just received my 7qts. of 5w30 Royal Purple HPS for this upcoming season :rockon:
 

UnleashedBeast

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Yeah, I always used the Shell Rotella T because it had a high amount of ZDDP, it's relatively cheap, and I can get it at any auto parts store. If I didn't mind driving out of my way or ordering, I would use Amsoil. :beer:

Next time, try some Royal Purple API SL 10W-30 (edited by Jimmy- the SL old formula version is getting harder and harder to find so consider the HPS if you don't find the SL) from the auto parts store, it's the older bottles that were common to RP for many years, not the newer bottle. You should notice a performance increase using a true synthetic base stock compared to the refined petroleum base stock of Rotella T6. Just because it says "Full synthetic" on the bottle doesn't mean it is. Thanks oil industry for the confusion. Better mpg, smoother idle, less valve train noise, and 1-2% increase in power output have all been reported side effects of using a true synthetic compared to highly refined petroleum and standard petroleum lubricants.

True synthetic 10W-30 will also have far greater shear resistance. More than likely, no shear at all during a normal service interval. You will also have lower NOACK volatility. Less evaporation/burn off means less oil ending up in your catch can, intake manifold, intake valves, etc...

Just an FYI, if you ever want Amsoil Signature Series @ cost, I can save you 25% off retail and you will have it over night. It will average less than $7.85 per quart depending on quantity. This applies to anyone interested.

thanks so much for the detailed info unleashed beast :beer: you answered lots of my doubts :) BTW your gt500 is blue with white stripes ?

Yes, it is. I live in Northwest Florida, Pensacola.

As usual Unleashed Beast delivers! Its funny, I just received my 7qts. of 5w30 Royal Purple HPS for this upcoming season :rockon:

Like Jimmy, and others, we are all here for the community. :beer:
 
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bambinov8

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Next time, try some Royal Purple API SL 10W-30 (edited by Jimmy- the SL old formula version is getting harder and harder to find so consider the HPS if you don't find the SL) from the auto parts store, it's the older bottles that were common to RP for many years, not the newer bottle. You should notice a performance increase using a true synthetic base stock compared to the refined petroleum base stock of Rotella T6. Just because it says "Full synthetic" on the bottle doesn't mean it is. Thanks oil industry for the confusion. Better mpg, smoother idle, less valve train noise, and 1-2% increase in power output have all been reported side effects of using a true synthetic compared to highly refined petroleum and standard petroleum lubricants.

True synthetic 10W-30 will also have far greater shear resistance. More than likely, no shear at all during a normal service interval. You will also have lower NOACK volatility. Less evaporation/burn off means less oil ending up in your catch can, intake manifold, intake valves, etc...

Just an FYI, if you ever want Amsoil Signature Series @ cost, I can save you 25% off retail and you will have it over night. It will average less than $7.85 per quart depending on quantity. This applies to anyone interested.



Yes, it is. I live in Northwest Florida, Pensacola.



Like Jimmy, and others, we are all here for the community. :beer:
so as far as my set up , kb 2.2/ E85 , what's the best oil for my car from the ones you mentioned ? Oops sorry just saw you already posted the answer earlier :)
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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thanks for this great info jimmy , now my question is what weight should I get from royal purple for e85 ? Mobil said I be better if I use diesel turbo motor oil !:shrug:

I recommend Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle) or Royal Purple HPS 10W-30 (part #31130, quart bottle) at minimum for a mostly street use app.

For a dedicated race Terminator on E85 Royal Purple XPR 5W-30 (part #01021, quart bottle). This is not an inexpensive oil, however if you want or your application needs the absolute maximum protection and performance that you can possibly buy... this is it.
This is what I use.


Special thanks go out to Troy(UnleashedBeast) for his on going high quality and accurate lubrication posts here on SVTP. It is so refreshing to know an Amsoil guy who not only does not take cheap shots at Royal Purple but acknowledges us and other high end synthetics as legitimate viable best choices along with Amsoil for high quality high performance use.
 
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UnleashedBeast

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Special thanks go out to Troy(UnleashedBeast) for his on going high quality and accurate lubrication posts here on SVTP. It is so refreshing to know an Amsoil guy who not only does not take cheap shots at Royal Purple but acknowledges us and other high end synthetics as legitimate viable best choices along with Amsoil for high quality high performance use.

Thanks Jimmy,

and thanks for the friendly edit about RP availability. I know here in the Northwest Florida area, the old formulation of mainline Royal Purple is still easily found. However, as you stated, that doesn't apply to other parts of the country.

Question, is HPS going to be offered in stores like Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, and Oreilly.....

or is this something more specific to race shops and online ordering. I have yet to hold a bottle of HPS in my hands.

Thanks
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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Thanks Jimmy,

and thanks for the friendly edit about RP availability. I know here in the Northwest Florida area, the old formulation of mainline Royal Purple is still easily found. However, as you stated, that doesn't apply to other parts of the country.

Question, is HPS going to be offered in stores like Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, and Oreilly.....

or is this something more specific to race shops and online ordering. I have yet to hold a bottle of HPS in my hands.

Thanks
You are very welcome Troy.

HPS from Auto Zone = no.
If any of you have race shops near by who sell Royal Purple, they will typically be ahead of the curve and might actually have HPS in stock in addition to the more established XPR series race oils.

Advanced Auto, Carquest, NAPA, O'Reilly's, and Pep Boys have been buying HPS from us since it was launched in early summer of 2011. Eventually they will have special order availability at minimum, though we are hoping some shelf space comes into play after a while too.

Due to Royal Purple HPS being a new product this year, you are not likely to find it on a local store shelf. However a special order can sometimes be done in some regions of the USA at your local O’Reilly’s or NAPA. Also in some regions Advanced Auto, Carquest and Pep Boys may also be able to special order HPS for you.

If getting HPS locally does not work out it is definitely available and shipping online at:

Amazon.com: Amazon.com: Used and New: ROYAL PURPLE 31530 Multi-Grade Street Oil 5w30 1-Qt

Lucky7trucks.com: HPS High Performance Street Oil - Lucky 7 Truck Accessories
Summit Racing: Royal Purple at SummitRacing.com: synthetic motor oil, coolant additives, gear lube, transmission fluid, assembly lube & more
Jegs: Royal Purple 31130 Royal Purple HPS Street Motor Oil
Pace Performance: Pace Performance
 

gt347mustang

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I'll bet you're getting moisture in the oil and not burning it off. I would swap back to a stock unit.

As you know water in the oil is bad on bearings.

E85 burns cool and attracts moisture which makes its way into your oil. By running a cool thermostat your oil won't get hot enough to vaporize the water in the pan.


Not saying this is the cause, but it may be part of your issue.
 

ugotbit03

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Do OEM's put different bearings in flex fuel capable units?

Do OEM's use different oils for flex fuel vehicles?

Not that I'm aware of. From what I have seen e85 has become a crutch for amature engine builders and tooners to blame for carnage as a result of their "skills"
 

vladSVT

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I'll bet you're getting moisture in the oil and not burning it off. I would swap back to a stock unit.

As you know water in the oil is bad on bearings.

E85 burns cool and attracts moisture which makes its way into your oil. By running a cool thermostat your oil won't get hot enough to vaporize the water in the pan.


Not saying this is the cause, but it may be part of your issue.

Definitely. I noticed a large amount of moisture when starting up my car, and I mean alot, literally my exhaust was mostly water, usually in cold temps though.

Very interesting thread, great information! And as far as OP's engine could be a combination of things, a 79K motor that is well over 600rwhp can defintely take a dump, not because of tuning/fuel but rather stress and mileage.
 

04sleeper

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Since I was mentioned I will give my $.02

Here has been my experience with E85 and oil.

I ran Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil for quite some time and stuck with it when I switched over to E85. Since no one around had any experience with running E85, I figured I would be the guinea pig.

I ran the car for 9 months and accumulated 1100 miles on my first change. I sent my oil to Blackstone Labratories for anaylsis. When I got my report back it said the oil actually was around 5W-20 now. Not enough harm to concern the engine, but it did seem to thin a little bit. They recommended to go to 1500 miles for my next change. No unusual wear on "Main Bearings" or anything abnormal.

I also paid extra money to have the "Engine Additive's" tested to see if time had anything to do with changes. You remember the old rule "3 Months or 3000 Miles!" Well the report said the additive package was fine and that it would take several years for the package to deteriorate. So that blew that myth out of the water. Time has very little effect on oil changes.

With that being said I would not blame E85 for eating main bearings or causing any unusual wear on the engine. If you find a builder or "Tooner" blaming E85, time to find another builder/"Tooner".

Just think, if E85 caused main bearing failure, there would be mass chaos with the millions of flex fuel cars running around. It would have been all over.


I would like to add that Ford Manuals that recommend changing oil at 5000 mile intervals also mention changing at 3000 for E85. So they do recommend changing it a little sooner.

I have always changed my oil sooner than recommended so it never really affected me.

Hope this helps.
 

MalcolmV8

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I would like to add that Ford Manuals that recommend changing oil at 5000 mile intervals also mention changing at 3000 for E85. So they do recommend changing it a little sooner.

That was a question I had, thanks for answering. So clearly there is some accelerated deterioration of oil with E85 vs regular pump gas.
 

UnleashedBeast

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I'll bet you're getting moisture in the oil and not burning it off. I would swap back to a stock unit.

As you know water in the oil is bad on bearings.

E85 burns cool and attracts moisture which makes its way into your oil. By running a cool thermostat your oil won't get hot enough to vaporize the water in the pan.


Not saying this is the cause, but it may be part of your issue.

I quoted this post for truth.

Fuel dilution/moisture is a bigger issue with cars in cooler climates combined with E85 and cooler thermostats. People short trip the vehicle not allowing the engine lubricant to achieve a temperature great enough to burn/evaporate contaminants. This is hard on engine lubricant detergents. Short trips/fuel dilution degrade engine lubricants prematurely leading to sludge buildup and other failures.

Summary, don't short trip the car, ever. Drive it longer.
 

bambinov8

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Since I was mentioned I will give my $.02

Here has been my experience with E85 and oil.

I ran Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil for quite some time and stuck with it when I switched over to E85. Since no one around had any experience with running E85, I figured I would be the guinea pig.

I ran the car for 9 months and accumulated 1100 miles on my first change. I sent my oil to Blackstone Labratories for anaylsis. When I got my report back it said the oil actually was around 5W-20 now. Not enough harm to concern the engine, but it did seem to thin a little bit. They recommended to go to 1500 miles for my next change. No unusual wear on "Main Bearings" or anything abnormal.

I also paid extra money to have the "Engine Additive's" tested to see if time had anything to do with changes. You remember the old rule "3 Months or 3000 Miles!" Well the report said the additive package was fine and that it would take several years for the package to deteriorate. So that blew that myth out of the water. Time has very little effect on oil changes.

With that being said I would not blame E85 for eating main bearings or causing any unusual wear on the engine. If you find a builder or "Tooner" blaming E85, time to find another builder/"Tooner".

Just think, if E85 caused main bearing failure, there would be mass chaos with the millions of flex fuel cars running around. It would have been all over.


I would like to add that Ford Manuals that recommend changing oil at 5000 mile intervals also mention changing at 3000 for E85. So they do recommend changing it a little sooner.

I have always changed my oil sooner than recommended so it never really affected me.

Hope this helps.
thanks for chimming in 04sleeper ..great info :beer:
 

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