Oil pressure(electric) & Eng. Temp(electric) Gauge install

[Jimmysidecarr]

I finally decided to get some real gauges... ones that actually tell me what's going on!
The 2 most important functuions I want to monitor are...
1... oil pressure... and 2...Engine coolant temp.

I chose Autometer Lunar electrics for a couple of reasons...
1... I don't feel like dealing with capilary tubing(Diff. temp will probably go that route though) and the adapters for the DIRECT READ senders are too large...
2... and I like the way they look.

Finding the locations...

Coolant temp...EDIT: This temp sender is now in a custom burp plug in the crossover tube.
I wanted to maintain the factory temp sender signal to the ECU because it is a multifunction deal (fans, factory guage, ECU tuning parameters, ETC...)
So I put the new sender in the (see edit) .. and left the factory one alone.

The plug to remove from block...

Where the plug came from and the new sender used to go...

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Ok so now while I'm under there... I need to find a spot for the new oil sender without ditching the factory one...

I didn't want to use a tee and adapter so I heard about pulling this plug out...

Oil plug...

I then switched the factory sender to the spot the plug was in... and added the new sender where the factory one WAS...

I then wanted to combine the 2 sender wires and wrap them in tape...
to make them less visible ... and to make the feeding process easier...

There is very little room in there for wrapping so I came up with this little trick...

The big roll of tape is TOO BIG!!!

The solution was to break a pencil and wrap it with tape to make a smaller roll..

to continue

 

[P49Y-CY]

good info and pics! thx!

that is the coolant sensor location i would like to use as well. it looks pretty easily accessable! i have a mechanical capillary water temp gauge that i would like to use, but i think i read another thread saying that it might not work there tho - sender too long or something

:read:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

The routing of the sender wires...

I decided to follow the clutch cable most of the way... since the coolant wire was already following it...

When the two sender wires met each other I started wrapping them together and fed them up the clutch cable till they met the Hydroboost line...


Transition to Hydrooost line...

More of the route...

Now I need to get it throught the rubber harness boot on the firewall...

HMMM...

Cut boot with knife, wrap wires to long screw driver.... and POKE!!!

POKE

to continue...

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Now the rest... for me was HELL!!!
1. I hate laying under dashes!!! :mj: :bash: :bash:
2. I can't focus on anything under there because my eyes are too damn old... everything is too close!!! :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:

But most of you should not have too much trouble with the rest...

Follow the Autometer directions...
and if using a pod set up for the A pillar... I highly recommend the Speedofsound pod set up!!! It is top notch!!! with excellent instructions also!!!

I had also looked up here and elsewhere the wiring source points...
internal(under the dash) fuses #35 for ignition switchable power... and # 37 for gauge dimming illumination power.

I could not see the numbers :bash: :bash:

So I went old school...
Non-powered test light... found a fuse position that was dead with the ignition off(could be 35??? I'll never know :bash: ) but that was live with the ign. on...

then I tapped in with one of these... add-a-circuit(Autozone... cheap!!!) to power the gauges...

I used the same basic technique.. to find the dash light circuit...
headlights on ... dashlights dimmed all the way.... find the dim light with test light .... hold it there while turning up the brightness and see if it follows...
It did... I used it!!! Pull fuse... plug in add-a-circuit... plug original fuse into add-a-circuit... put in low amp fuse for illumination... ba da bing!!!

As you may already know the Autometer guages will be brighter than the stock cluster... Per instruction on another thread here... I installed a radio shack 25ohm sweep potentiometer... and adjusted them down...

SWEET!!!

I'll find that thread and link to it here-----> [ame]http://67.15.62.79/forums/showthread.php?p=2118871#post2118871[/ame]
http://svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207812&highlight=dimmer
because there are pics... and they are quite good ... as is the instructions :bowdown: :bowdown:


Not all that tough really...
And worth doing for sure!!!

Jimmy :beer:

 

[BLK03SVT10TH]

Your going to want to watch those wires that you routed up the clutch cable, I did the same thing and the heat down there gets pretty toasty, enough to melt the plastic coating on some wire. I bought some 600 Deg Temperature Resistant Wire Covering and slipped it over my sending unit wires.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Thanks!!!

I'll keep an eye on that... and may do the same..

Jimmy :thumbsup:

 

[Steeda30]

Nice write-up. I did those two gauges recently but I used the crossover tube for the water temp sender. I'm thinking about putting it down on the block instead though.

One question, what does your oil pressure read when the key is switched to the first position (just electrical on, no engine). Mine sits at the tick between the 0 and 25. I'm not sure why it isn't reading 0? Any ideas?

The oil pressure reads ~37.5 (tick between the 25 and 50) while idling, after warmed up.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Nice write-up. I did those two gauges recently but I used the crossover tube for the water temp sender. I'm thinking about putting it down on the block instead though.

One question, what does your oil pressure read when the key is switched to the first position (just electrical on, no engine). Mine sits at the tick between the 0 and 25. I'm not sure why it isn't reading 0? Any ideas?

The oil pressure reads ~37.5 (tick between the 25 and 50) while idling, after warmed up.

I thought it was real close to zero... I'll check it though...

Jimmy :shrug:

 

[Steeda30]

:whine: Mine must be defective. Its wired up correctly, so I'm not sure what the problem could be. Oh well, as long as I take note of the #'s it's been running, and assume they are normal, any change from that will indicate something is up.

 

[modded46]

Thank you so much... I'm right in the beginning of installing the oil pressure gauge and heard quite a few rumours about needing a tee fitting or using the plug method.. Pictures speak 1000 words!!!

Quick question for you.. when you removed the plug did you lose oil from there? I was just going to change oil anyway when I removed it but just wondering if that will start the flow..

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Thank you so much... I'm right in the beginning of installing the oil pressure gauge and heard quite a few rumours about needing a tee fitting or using the plug method.. Pictures speak 1000 words!!!

Quick question for you.. when you removed the plug did you lose oil from there? I was just going to change oil anyway when I removed it but just wondering if that will start the flow..

YES!!

I wasn't ready for my full change yet .... so I put a new FL820 on and added a quart of Royal Purple...

Have the drain pan ready...

Jimmy :thumbsup:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Nice write-up. I did those two gauges recently but I used the crossover tube for the water temp sender. I'm thinking about putting it down on the block instead though.

One question, what does your oil pressure read when the key is switched to the first position (just electrical on, no engine). Mine sits at the tick between the 0 and 25. I'm not sure why it isn't reading 0? Any ideas?

The oil pressure reads ~37.5 (tick between the 25 and 50) while idling, after warmed up.

OK...... sorry that took so long!!! :bash:

My oil pressure reads just a hair under ZERO with the ign. on but the car off(alternator not spinning/charging)....

I think that would be pretty normal since battery voltage is always a bit less than operating voltage...

I would contact someone at Autometer and ask them anout this "calibration" issue...

They may be forth coming with a new sender or gauge........ or both.
The warranty is 12 months .... which is pretty good coverage for an aftermarket electrical item.

Jimmy :thumbsup:

 

[Steeda30]

Gotcha, I'll call them and see what I can arrange with them; perhaps a new sending unit is the fix.

Your posts rock btw, always informative and edjumakashional! :rockon:

Especially when it comes to preaching about the importance of proper cooling, I've talked to too many fellow Terminator owners that have no clue about it.

I have the Autometer Water/Oil Press as well, along with a DynoTune LC-1 Wideband A/F ($279) and a DynoTune digital EGT gauge sitting in the box!

You should get you the LC-1 and DynoTune EGT, I think it will be nice having the EGT in digital 1*C increments.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Gotcha, I'll call them and see what I can arrange with them; perhaps a new sending unit is the fix.

Your posts rock btw, always informative and edjumakashional! :rockon:

Especially when it comes to preaching about the importance of proper cooling, I've talked to too many fellow Terminator owners that have no clue about it. Thanks!!!(BLUSH)... I have an agenda though... I want zero stock Terminator lower end failures!!!

I have the Autometer Water/Oil Press as well, along with a DynoTune LC-1 Wideband A/F ($279) and a DynoTune digital EGT gauge sitting in the box!

You should get you the LC-1 and DynoTune EGT, I think it will be nice having the EGT in digital 1*C increments.

I would love to have a way to monitor EGTs...

But I'm stock boost, stock catback, stock air box, stock cats, .... I do have an SCT Xcal2 93 octane flash tune...(w/ fans on early of course!!!)

So until I dip into the "HORSEPOWER FOUNTAIN OF BLISS""... I just want to be able to do my 15 minutes + of WOT without any limp mode!!!(Open Track!!!)

Some day ... there will be more boost...

But for now I just want the people I pass to stay passed!!!

Jimmy :thumbsup:

 

[modded46]

WOO hoo! Wanted to thank you again.. Oil Pressure gauge in and running strong.. Your thread REALLY helped!

Little off here, but does anyone know.. On a 2V 4.6, it looks like the factory water temp sensor is right beside the alternator. Can this simply be replaced with a aftermarket sensor? Water temp is next on my list..

BTW, the cobalt gauges look bad ass in my opinion!

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

WOO hoo! Wanted to thank you again.. Oil Pressure gauge in and running strong.. Your thread REALLY helped! Glad it helped!!!

Little off here, but does anyone know.. On a 2V 4.6, it looks like the factory water temp sensor is right beside the alternator. Can this simply be replaced with a aftermarket sensor? Water temp is next on my list.. I do not like the idea of removing the factory piece because of the mutiple functions the PCM uses this sensor for...I put mine in the left side of the for that reason...plus it's pretty damn hot on that side!!!
Left side of the block that is...

BTW, the cobalt gauges look bad ass in my opinion!

Jimmy :rockon:

 

[modded46]

K, looks like i'm using your thread again when the water temp gets bought. Anyone got a Full Sweep Cobalt they want to sell cheap?

 

[OhIIICobra]

Hey, on the Autometer Lunar Oil Pressure sender, does it thread directly in the stock sender location once you take the plug out. Or do you need to purchase an adapter? I'm about to do fuel pressure, oil pressure, and raptor shiftlight and this was something I'm still not clear on. :burnout:

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Hey, on the Autometer Lunar Oil Pressure sender, does it thread directly in the stock sender location once you take the plug out. Or do you need to purchase an adapter? I'm about to do fuel pressure, oil pressure, and raptor shiftlight and this was something I'm still not clear on. :burnout:

Adapter is included in the kit...
You can see it in the pic... above ^

Jimmy :thumbsup: