*Speed of Sound Pod/ Fuel/ Boost Guage Install *PICS*
Install of Alan's (Speed of Sound) custom pillar pod with Autometer Lunar Fuel Pressure and Boost Guages...
Parts needed beyond what is supplied for the guages:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-Flux
-Shrink Tubing
-Various elecrical connectors
-Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit (FOR MINI FUSES), NOT for large fuses (AutoZone)
-1 Amp inline fuse (Auto Zone)
Boost Guage:
- Various rubber fittings (Auto Zone)
- Plastic Y's, specifically 3/16" (Auto Zone)
Fuel Pressure Guage:
- 1/16 NPT to 4 AN adaptor(Autometer # 3275)
- 3 Ft. Stainless Steel Hose #4 (Autometer # 3227)
- 90 degree 4AN swivel (Autometer # 3274)
For boost guage install:
Locate the factory boost guage line behind the glove box by pressing the tabs on the side toward the middle of the box. The box will then fall completely open:
Here is the factory boost line. Remove the yellow plastic connector from the two boost lines
Place the 3/16" white plastic y-adaptor onto the factory lines and new boost guage line using the rubber adaptors. Carefully route the boost line under the dash to the driver's side, behind the radio. BE CAREFUL, that plastic line has crazy memory. It is very easy to kink the line while routing. The wiring for the boost guage will follow with the fuel pressure install....
Fuel Guage Install:
Start be removing the cap from the Scraeder valve (just like a tire valve) on the fuel rail and stuffing paper towels around the valve...
Place another paper towell on top of the valve. VERY CAREFULLY (with eye protection and while working on a cool engine), use a small screwdriver or allen wrench to bleed the fuel pressure from the line.
Once all pressure has been relieved, remove the valve from the fuel rail
LIGHTLY coat the 1/16 to 4 AN adaptor with some liquid thread tape.
Attach to fuel rail along with the swivel, and 4 ft. hose... Attach fuel pressure sending unit to end of hose
Cut and solder in the 1Amp inline fuse to the red wire off of the main wiring harness for the fuel pressure guage
Now, there are many ways to accomplish the same goal on the next part. The wires from the sending unit must be run through the firewall into the car. How you want to do this is up to you. You can drill a new hole and install a grommet, or you can cut the wires, run them through an existing grommet and solder back together. I did the latter as I didn't want to cut into the car.
Cut the purple, gray, and black wires from the main harness that run to the sending unit. Be sure to leave enough length to run through the firewall and have room to solder...
Duct tape the three cut wires to the end of a coat hanger and fish them through a grommet in the firewall.
Once in the car, reconnect the purple, gray, and black wires via solder, and shrink tubing to the main wiring harness...
Now for the wiring. Place your guages loosely in the pod and run all wires appropriately through the pod. This is the only hiccup I experienced. The connector for the fuel pressure guage was a little bigger than the opening into the pod. I simply used a dremel to open the pod a little so the connector could fit through. You will have a series of wires:
-2 white (power for lights)
-3 black ground
-1 remote turn on for f.p. guage (red)
The white wires get connected to the add-a-circuit
The grounds all get placed on the following connector...
Now for the turn on for the f.p. guage (red wire). This is the wire that tells the guage to turn on while the car is on. Again, there are different ways to do this. Some add an additional add-a-circuit and use fuse block #20. I didn't have another one, and A.Z. was closed, so I just searched until I found a wire that was hot when the ignition was on. The one I found was off of the defrost button harness. To get to it:
Remove shift knob and bezel and disconnect cig. lighter.
Remove trim around radio.
The pink with blue striped wire from the defrost harness is the one you want. I used a quick connnect as soldering here would be a PITA and connected the red turn-on wire.
Now get on your back ( have fun here!) and remove the 5 amp fuse from block #37. Doing this will allow you to dim the new guages at the same time you dim the factory guages. Plug the add-a-fuse in to #37 and place the 5amp fuse you just removed into the add-a-fuse. I used a 10amp fuse in the other slot to run the new guages. This picture also shows where I used my ground. (Sorry the pic is blurry, not the most comfortable position for photography).
Once all wires have been ran, carefully tape/zip tie everything away nicely. While installing the pod, make sure not to get any wires by the clips that hold the pod in. Turn the ignition on and the f.p. guage should reset itself. Turn on the light and see that your guages light up. Also, before you start the car, make sure you have no leaks where the fuel line has been added.
Enjoy.:beer:
Install of Alan's (Speed of Sound) custom pillar pod with Autometer Lunar Fuel Pressure and Boost Guages...
Parts needed beyond what is supplied for the guages:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-Flux
-Shrink Tubing
-Various elecrical connectors
-Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit (FOR MINI FUSES), NOT for large fuses (AutoZone)
-1 Amp inline fuse (Auto Zone)
Boost Guage:
- Various rubber fittings (Auto Zone)
- Plastic Y's, specifically 3/16" (Auto Zone)
Fuel Pressure Guage:
- 1/16 NPT to 4 AN adaptor(Autometer # 3275)
- 3 Ft. Stainless Steel Hose #4 (Autometer # 3227)
- 90 degree 4AN swivel (Autometer # 3274)
For boost guage install:
Locate the factory boost guage line behind the glove box by pressing the tabs on the side toward the middle of the box. The box will then fall completely open:
Here is the factory boost line. Remove the yellow plastic connector from the two boost lines
Place the 3/16" white plastic y-adaptor onto the factory lines and new boost guage line using the rubber adaptors. Carefully route the boost line under the dash to the driver's side, behind the radio. BE CAREFUL, that plastic line has crazy memory. It is very easy to kink the line while routing. The wiring for the boost guage will follow with the fuel pressure install....
Fuel Guage Install:
Start be removing the cap from the Scraeder valve (just like a tire valve) on the fuel rail and stuffing paper towels around the valve...
Place another paper towell on top of the valve. VERY CAREFULLY (with eye protection and while working on a cool engine), use a small screwdriver or allen wrench to bleed the fuel pressure from the line.
Once all pressure has been relieved, remove the valve from the fuel rail
LIGHTLY coat the 1/16 to 4 AN adaptor with some liquid thread tape.
Attach to fuel rail along with the swivel, and 4 ft. hose... Attach fuel pressure sending unit to end of hose
Cut and solder in the 1Amp inline fuse to the red wire off of the main wiring harness for the fuel pressure guage
Now, there are many ways to accomplish the same goal on the next part. The wires from the sending unit must be run through the firewall into the car. How you want to do this is up to you. You can drill a new hole and install a grommet, or you can cut the wires, run them through an existing grommet and solder back together. I did the latter as I didn't want to cut into the car.
Cut the purple, gray, and black wires from the main harness that run to the sending unit. Be sure to leave enough length to run through the firewall and have room to solder...
Duct tape the three cut wires to the end of a coat hanger and fish them through a grommet in the firewall.
Once in the car, reconnect the purple, gray, and black wires via solder, and shrink tubing to the main wiring harness...
Now for the wiring. Place your guages loosely in the pod and run all wires appropriately through the pod. This is the only hiccup I experienced. The connector for the fuel pressure guage was a little bigger than the opening into the pod. I simply used a dremel to open the pod a little so the connector could fit through. You will have a series of wires:
-2 white (power for lights)
-3 black ground
-1 remote turn on for f.p. guage (red)
The white wires get connected to the add-a-circuit
The grounds all get placed on the following connector...
Now for the turn on for the f.p. guage (red wire). This is the wire that tells the guage to turn on while the car is on. Again, there are different ways to do this. Some add an additional add-a-circuit and use fuse block #20. I didn't have another one, and A.Z. was closed, so I just searched until I found a wire that was hot when the ignition was on. The one I found was off of the defrost button harness. To get to it:
Remove shift knob and bezel and disconnect cig. lighter.
Remove trim around radio.
The pink with blue striped wire from the defrost harness is the one you want. I used a quick connnect as soldering here would be a PITA and connected the red turn-on wire.
Now get on your back ( have fun here!) and remove the 5 amp fuse from block #37. Doing this will allow you to dim the new guages at the same time you dim the factory guages. Plug the add-a-fuse in to #37 and place the 5amp fuse you just removed into the add-a-fuse. I used a 10amp fuse in the other slot to run the new guages. This picture also shows where I used my ground. (Sorry the pic is blurry, not the most comfortable position for photography).
Once all wires have been ran, carefully tape/zip tie everything away nicely. While installing the pod, make sure not to get any wires by the clips that hold the pod in. Turn the ignition on and the f.p. guage should reset itself. Turn on the light and see that your guages light up. Also, before you start the car, make sure you have no leaks where the fuel line has been added.
Enjoy.:beer:
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