Relocating the stuff that is bolted to the side of the blower.
I have an EGR delete kit, but until there is evidence that there is a benefit to doing this I took what another member "SNIPERDOG" did and ran with it. Here is a short write-up. I probably left a few things out, but you will get the idea. This was done on a Whipple, but it should be nearly the same for KB's and Eatons alike. All of the vac lines will reach, but you will need to extend all of the wires (4). I do not know what most of this stuff is called, so if someone knows, please let me know and I will edit the thread.
Here is a picture of the blower with everything still mounted to the side. (ugly)
A close up..
I began by moving everything that was not going to be relocated out of the way.
Next, I began removing everything from the bracket.
Remove the bracket.
Cut away all of the tape and remove the convoluted tubing from around the vac lines and wires.
Pop the cowl off and lay it back across your windshied (or undo the washer fluid lines and remove it from the car completely) I left it hooked up and just put some soft towels underneath the cowl to keep it from damaging the paint of the A-pillars.
Here is a shot with the cowl lifted up, and the vac lines and wires unsheathed.
There is a hard plastic tube that runs from a port on the drivers side and attaches to a soft rubber hose mounted to the passenger side shock tower. I did away with the hard tube and used a 3/8th ID rubber vac line and reduced it to a 3/16 ID and attached it to the port that was located on the drivers side, but will soon be under the cowl. You will see what I am talking about when you start the project
Drill two 1/8" pilot holes through the lower cowl and through the firewall. I then followed these holes with a 1/2" bit.
I then fished the vac lines and the wires through one hole, and the 3/16th rubber vac tube that I added, through the second hole. I then made all of my electrical connections using butt connectors. Then put everything that was on the bracket into the cowl, plugged in all of the vac lines and plugged in the electrical adapters. I also fastened everything in place with zip ties so that they would not rattle or move around under the cowl.
Next I mounted the square box with the single wired plug and two vac lines that was mounted to the very back of the accessory bracket to the firewall with self tapping 3/4 inch sheet metal screws.
Wrap up all of the exposed vac lines and wires with black electrical tape and fasten them down to the convoluted tubing that contains the wiring for the injectors.
Here is a side shot of the completed work.
Here is a pic of all the junk that was removed. Most of it is in the garbage now.
I did not take any shots of everything all buttoned up, but I covered all of the vac line and wires that were running from the rear of the blower and into the cowl with black electrical tape and convoluted tubing.
-Jeff
____________________________________ New engine going in soon...
Built By Modular Performance
Notice: Running Drag Radials in the rain is a bad idea.
Great write up Jeff!!! I actually just finished mine up a few minutes ago, but's it's too dark for pics. Best part was while moving the cowl I found the cricket noise that's been bugging me for the past three years!!!!!
Note: I had to extend the vac. line that went to the boost bypass.
____________________________________ Black 2003 Cobra
Posi Ported Blower, Dragon TB/Plenum, RR 2.65/Metco 4lb, Bassani Headers, Mac Prochamber, Borla Stingers, JLT RAI w/ 12" Filter, Compucar Wet Kit, SCT PRP.
New numbers one day.......
6.9 @102 Eaton
11.00 @ 127 Eaton
6.88 @ 104 Best 1/8...Ported Eaton/50 shot N2O
10.71 @ 133 Best 1/4...Ported Eaton/50 shot N2O
I like the work, but I just have one question, and it isn't that I'm any kind of an expert on this stuff.
I believe one of the Sensors in the back right next to the Boost-By-Pass Actuator is some kind of an Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Barometric I think) and I was wondering if there would be any adverse effects to moving it under the Cowel.
It might be the one you've got mounted to the Cowel
____________________________________
2004 Sonic Blue Ford Lightning
Stiegemeier Stage IV Show Polished Supercharger, Stiegemeier Stage IV Show Polished Plenum, Accufab Single Blade Polished Throttle Body, Chickenears Stage III Cool-Aid Cold Air Induction, Billetflow 2.93 Non-Slip Upper Pulley, LFP 6# Lower Interchangable Pulley Kit, MotoBlue Double-Bearing Billet Idler Pulleys, MagnumPowers Auxiliary Idler Bracket, Bassani SS Catted Mid-Pipe, Bassani SS Cat-Back, Hotchkis TVS Kit (Springs and Sway Bars), Bilstein HPS1000 Shocks, LFP Steering Stabilizer, Caster/Camber Bolt Kit, Clunk Washer Kit, EGR Delete Kit, Russel SS Brake Lines, LFP Transmission Pan (3.5 Quarts Larger), TA Performance Differential Cover, Canton Radiator Tank, Canton Intercooler Tank, Hankook 295/45/18 Tires. Tuned by Rick@AmazonRacing
Last edited by BLK03SVT10TH; 09-17-2007 at 01:36 AM.
I like the work, but I just have one question, and it isn't that I'm any kind of an expert on this stuff.
I believe one of the Sensors in the back right next to the Boost-By-Pass Actuator is some kind of an Atmospheric Pressure Sensor (Barometric I think) and I was wondering if there would be any adverse effects to moving it under the Cowel.
It might be the one you've got mounted to the Cowel
That shouldn't be a problem, even if that sensor is now in the cowl, the cowl erea is not sealed off at all.
Nice Jeff, looks a whole lot cleaner like that too.
I owe it to you though for pointing me in this direction instead of the complete delete of the EGR system. Now I just have to figure out what I want to do with this delete kit that I bought.
is there any way you could post a picture of the electrical connections you had to make? im weary of cutting, doing somethiwn wrong with the wiring to those electrical wires on the sensors....
is there any way you could post a picture of the electrical connections you had to make? im weary of cutting, doing somethiwn wrong with the wiring to those electrical wires on the sensors....
The two connectors that are moved have two wires each, that will need extending. I used butt connectors and shrink wrap, but it is as simple as extending a total of 4 wires. You just need to mark the wires in order not to get them backwards, and make sure you dont cut wires too close to connector. Cutting the wires was also the toughest part for me.
Rob
I used 4 different wire colors for the 4 different connections that I made (2 connections per device). It made it super easy to keep track of, and I had the wire handy. Then I just butt connected them and wrapped the entire strand of wires in electrical tape.
okay i think i can handle the wires....now i have another question.
that LONG black hard tube that you rreplaced....on the end of mine there was a big cylinder thing( like a little bigger than a shotgun shell) with it capped off at the end. theres also another line that was capped off!...im posting pictures so you guys can see what im talking about. i just didnt know if i could completely delete them or what!
is htat the boost bypass? or is the boost bypass an acual sensor that has a harness on it?? because i see thats not in this write up because of the whipple.....hmm i need to figure out where to put that too.
okay i think i can handle the wires....now i have another question.
that LONG black hard tube that you rreplaced....on the end of mine there was a big cylinder thing( like a little bigger than a shotgun shell) with it capped off at the end. theres also another line that was capped off!...im posting pictures so you guys can see what im talking about. i just didnt know if i could completely delete them or what!
What I did with that, was remove allot of the excess tubing, and stash it in the cowl with the valve if memory serves me correctly. I'm not sure what that part is
is htat the boost bypass? or is the boost bypass an acual sensor that has a harness on it?? because i see thats not in this write up because of the whipple.....hmm i need to figure out where to put that too.
No, thats were there is a little difference, your bypass if you have the eaton, is the cylindrical gizmo slightly behind the two valves. I believe it has a little metal rod hanging hanging out of the bottom. But, I think one of the two valves being moved is part of the boost bypass syetm. The cylindrical gizmo stays.
right...well my tubing has nothing but a cap at hte end of it like i was saying...so if i can just cut it off and not stash it...id like that. i wil post pics in about 2 hours
No, thats were there is a little difference, your bypass if you have the eaton, is the cylindrical gizmo slightly behind the two valves. I believe it has a little metal rod hanging hanging out of the bottom. But, I think one of the two valves being moved is part of the boost bypass syetm. The cylindrical gizmo stays.
oh i know that thing with the metal rod stayes......the other guy that you extend on of the electrical wires for...di you stash that under the cowl too? haha this is hard without konwing names. i will explain in the pics!
The thing in the first picture I deleted by capping it off at the T fitting in the second pic. In the second pic those two selenoids I relocated to the cowl by extending the wires and vac line.
,.,..
. I'm not sure what that part is 
Linear Mode
